Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by The Ranger, Jan 16, 2006.

1. ### The RangerLawnSite Memberfrom NE OhioMessages: 208

In a few threads recently posted price of fert was discussed. One mentioned since the cost of urea was so high might as well spread SCU. If you are pricing fert and you are comparing similar products (30% scu, 50% scu, or urea) you should compare the cost of N not cost of the bag. Example: bag of Urea costs 14.00. Each lb of N cost 61cents. Comparing that to a bag of
34-3-11 @ 14.00 the N in the 34-3-11 N cost 82 cents lb. When buying fert try to buy the best bang for a buck by buying the most amount of N for the least price in a similar product. Example: take a 25-3-5 for 14.00 (30%) and the 34-3-11 (30%) for 14.00, N in the 25-3-5 cost 1.12 while the other is 82cents. This is how you figure it....since fert is always in a 50lb bag, except for retail. Divide the N number by 2. The number you get represents the amount of lbs of N in the bag. Divide the cost of the bag by the number of N lbs = cost per N lb. And if you are comparing urea costs, urea is pretty much urea (prill or pellets)and Lesco has never been competitive on that product.

3. ### ThreeWideLawnSite Bronze Memberfrom Georgia Z7Messages: 1,116

Very good information.

This can go yet another level deeper when looking at the cost of N.

I am often more concerned about how that amount of N in the product is derived. This may not matter as much depending on your turf and climate, but many times the real value is determined by how much slow release is included. This is where you get more bang for the buck so to speak.

If you look at 32-5-7 with 30% SCU, compare it to a 28-5-12 with 50% SCU. You may find that the total price per pound of N is lower with the 32-5-7, however 28-5-12 could turn out to provide more slow release per dollar spent. One would have to compare actual pricing, but that is just an example.

4. ### AllBradLawnSite Memberfrom somewhere southMessages: 73

sub......................

5. ### jc1LawnSite Bronze Memberfrom The Real South JerseyMessages: 1,716

You just subscribed to a seven year old thread and I replied to make it worth your while

6. ### Above Par LawnsLawnSite Senior Memberfrom Blue Springs, MissouriMessages: 512

I stumbled upon this thread yesterday believe it or not.

7. ### AllBradLawnSite Memberfrom somewhere southMessages: 73

Well that means that i am 7 years behind. Just storing info for later reference. Thanks for the reply.

8. ### ted putnamLawnSite Platinum Memberfrom ArkansasMessages: 4,548

It doesn't mean you're 7 yrs behind.

It just means that good information is timeless.....

9. ### AllBradLawnSite Memberfrom somewhere southMessages: 73

Great site. Thank you everyone for you wonderful information. Now if I could just figure out if Mop is bad for centipede I would be set.

10. ### greendoctorLawnSite Fanaticfrom Honolulu, HawaiiMessages: 9,176

SOP or else potassium nitrate are safer sources of K for salt sensitive grasses. It might not matter much on soils that are so sandy that nothing is retained. I have to think about what I apply because my soils retain salt very well. The dogma about not fertilizing centipede much is related to the grass's reaction to having the wrong nutrient carriers applied to it. Keep in mind that centipede also needs an acid soil, lots of K in relation to N, not much P, and micronutrients. When centipede leaves turn purple, consider that a sign of possible K deficiency.