Know Your N Cost

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by The Ranger, Jan 16, 2006.

  1. AllBrad

    AllBrad LawnSite Member
    Posts: 73

    I knew you would respond. I am a big fan of your post. I once spent an entire day just reading you and Rals comments. No liquids for me this year, but I am considering building your backpack rig this winter. I do know your program, but it is extremely foreign to anyone around here. Well... probably not the golf courses. Our soils are Sandy loam to clay to hardpan junk dirt. Lots of Centipede on Red. 60+ inches of rain per year. 10-11 month +/- growing season.
     
  2. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,052

    My program is heresy to even golf courses, never mind lawn and landscape people. On that red clay hardpan: got plenty of that in Hawaii. It is even salt contaminated before anyone puts any fertilizer on it. That is why I need to be careful about what I apply. It locks up everything and holds on to everything. Too much P or chlorides becomes a problem. I have never seen 60" of rain per year. I get more like 20 in a good year and 10 in a bad one.
     
  3. AllBrad

    AllBrad LawnSite Member
    Posts: 73

    I am sure we both know what a hurricane looks like.

    I will continue to play around with different programs. It would be nice to find a few test subjects this upcoming year using your program. Probably hard to sell a monthly program around here. I could care less about a cheap program if the results are sub standard. Well... just standard. I can read all the opinions for days, but will never know until I find out for myself. I do thank you for all the time you spend on this site. Thanks.
     
  4. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,052

    Been through two in my lifetime so far. Good thing the first one did not cut right through the middle of Honolulu and the second one was even further away so all I got was a day of extreme heat and humidity. The island next to me was totally destroyed on the order of how Katrina wrecked New Orleans. Not much flooding, but 200 MPH winds saw to it that every structure and tree was blown down.

    Buying the components and tank mixing them comes out cheaper than trying to buy an appropriate granule. Unless you can cut a deal with a Co-Op to blend ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate and micronutrients to order. You are also not applying as much fertilizer per acre vs granules if spraying liquids. N is supposedly N, right? However, I have observed different effects from different N sources. Not all of them good. Ammonium nitrogen with only enough nitrate to carry K in the form of potassium nitrate has served me the best vs the One App or 60-90 day slow releases. Micronutrients work differently when applied as liquids vs granules as well. I apply on a 30-45 day schedule with a no weeds and green grass warranty. No extra charges for nutsedge, dallisgrass or crabgrass. I like what you said about not being interested in cheap products or cheap work. Cheap would be Jimmy Joe going down to HD for some 30-0-4 or whatever and pushing the spreader. This is about applying what will work well in a way that makes it work well. I think you will attract a different class of clientele by doing things that way.
     
  5. Skipster

    Skipster LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,074

    This is a dead giveaway of an amateur.

    If you apply the nutrient in a liquid application and leave it on the plant for a day before watering (relying on foliar uptake), you may see a slight difference. But, if you water it in right away (like GD advocates), you're just making a liquid application and the nutrients are subject to all the same soil variables and processes that granules are.

    BTW, where did you get your doctorate?
     
  6. AllBrad

    AllBrad LawnSite Member
    Posts: 73

    I believe that is my cue to exit. :waving:
     

Share This Page