Lamps that blow.....

Discussion in 'Landscape Lighting' started by irrigation lemieux, Jun 30, 2009.

  1. irrigation lemieux

    irrigation lemieux LawnSite Member
    Posts: 31

    Ive got a 12 gauge ,135 feet of wire to the center of my 8 fixture with 20 watts at the 18 volt tap.there is a kischler path light at the end who had blown two times.should i go to the 17 tap so that lamps doesnt blow.

    Any idea...........
     
  2. TXNSLighting

    TXNSLighting LawnSite Fanatic
    from DFW, TX
    Posts: 6,462

    did you hub this or daisy chain? If you daisy chained then thats your problem..What are you volting at the fixtures?
     
  3. irrigation lemieux

    irrigation lemieux LawnSite Member
    Posts: 31

    We hub this section.i did went to the job site,i just want some good leed before getting there.what is the daisy chain....
     
  4. TXNSLighting

    TXNSLighting LawnSite Fanatic
    from DFW, TX
    Posts: 6,462

    the daisy chain is where you run your wire and just start attaching fixtures to it in a row. Since its a hub you should have consistent voltage. But once again check the voltage on it. The rest of your post is hard to understand.
     
  5. Lite4

    Lite4 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,104

    Never mix MRs with T-3s on the same hub.
     
  6. Let There Be Light

    Let There Be Light LawnSite Member
    Posts: 81

    I see this all the time here in AZ. I would have run two 12 gauge cables, center fed and put 4 fixtures per cable and use a 12 volt transformer-OR-because clients like to ad, run 2 lines of 10 gauge, which would give you room for some additional fixtures down the road. Good luck
     
  7. INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting

    INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,102

    Hey Tim, I have never heard this before... what is your rationale? Never having had a problem with mixing MR16 and T3s on the same circuit I just don't see what the issue would be.

    Please illuminate us!
     
  8. David Gretzmier

    David Gretzmier LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,645

    at 160 watts you are off the charts as far as a reccomended load for a single 12 guage at 135 feet.I agree that you should have used 2 10's. at that load, wire and distance my charts indicate a 5 volt drop, and you are on the 18, so if your trans is feeding 18 volts, maybe you are hot ( 11.8 volts plus ) at some fixtures. even when using the hub method, it is not unusual to have variation in voltage at each fixture, as it is impossible to make each wire length the same. This seems to be more true on higher taps and greater distances from the trans itself.

    I too have heard the don't mix bulbs thing, but I tend to just try and make the g4 bulbs on the 10.5-11.3 range as they just can't seem to last a year at my preferred 11.2-11.6 range of mr-16's. the larger G6's seem to have no problems with normal mr-16 voltage ranges.
     
  9. S&MLL

    S&MLL LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 751

    t-3 wedge base bulbs suck. Maybe worst bulb ever made...Cheep crap.


    Anyway as far as mixing bulbs on a hub have not heard a problem yet.

    As far as your problem the t-3 is blowing first because mr-16s can handle higher voltage for longer. At 12.5 volts you will still get 3k hours. at 12.5 volts a t-3 will last MAYBE 100 hours.

    Everyone should use the s-8 wedge base. Kichler uses it on 80 percent of pathlights and I think Cast does as well.
     
  10. Lite4

    Lite4 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,104

    I never mix lamps with differing life spans and also the fact that my pars and MRs run good in the mid 11s where a t-3 will have a dramaticly shortened life span. T-3 halogens seem to maintain the best longevity running at around 10.7-11.2 volts. Just something I have observed over the years. I just make it my own personal rule now. You guys can do whatever you like though obviously.
     

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