landscape timber wall base?

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by 81Bronk36, May 21, 2008.

  1. 81Bronk36

    81Bronk36 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 178

    Is there anything you are "supposed" to put down as a base for 8x8 landscape timbers?? I have never seen anyone do anything special where I am from originally and doing my first one on my own and want to do it right. The wall will only be about 1 foot high. I hope this is enough info and in the right forum.:weightlifter:
     
  2. abclawncare

    abclawncare LawnSite Member
    Posts: 56

    i put timbers down in my yard and put slag under them for a better base than i stuck re-rod down through the tibers as well, i`m not a real seasond landscaper but i think that it is better than not. hope this helps
     
  3. amscapes03

    amscapes03 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 398

    Not sure if one foot high qualifies as a wall. What's this wall for, and how long is it?
     
  4. 81Bronk36

    81Bronk36 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 178

    Well It will be holding back rock, I am using it to make a better grade transition from the side of his screened in porch foundation and to catch the rain that comes off the roof. It will be about 50 feet total, but will follow the contours of his house about 18" away from it. I am thinking about anchoring it to the foundation especially around the screened in porch since it will hold the most rock back and the amount of rain water that potentially could fall in that area.

    BTW what is slag?? And I was planning on using re-rod on the first course and big nails on the other 2 courses, which is what they used on my parents house and its been standing for 20 years :dizzy:
    Thanks for the replys guys
     
  5. John Zaprala

    John Zaprala LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 283

    We use 3/4" clean stone as our base. Like you would for a stone wall. The clean stone allows the water to escape from beingnext to the timber after a rain and expediting the rotting process. Timbers are coated to be directly in contact with the soil; however, they aren't coated as well today as they were when your parents built their wall. The idea of having rebar is good, but we typically have the rebar through both the first and second courses. But in alternate locations. So put rebar through the first course like you said, then drill a second hole a feet apart from the first through both timbers as opposed to nailing the second layer.
     
  6. abclawncare

    abclawncare LawnSite Member
    Posts: 56

    slag sand is like a crushed stone, this is what i use for base, could be different where located.
     
  7. 81Bronk36

    81Bronk36 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 178

    Crushed or round or does it matter? I am going to be using some 3/4 stone anyways below the finished Blue stone that matches what is down around the front of the house so thats cool that I can use it as a base for the timbers as well. I will use the 2 layers of rebar like you said, even though it is a short wall I do want it to be strong


    Slag I think is the same as what I would call stone dust that turns hard as concrete almost.
     
  8. John Zaprala

    John Zaprala LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 283

    We call that grit here or screenings. You can't comapct round stones. The angular stone is better.
     
  9. amscapes03

    amscapes03 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 398

    6 inches of 3/4" crushed stone for a base. 2' long rebar for the first course, and 10" landscape timber screws for the remaining courses. I put screws in about every 16 to 18 inches. Screws are fast, strong and if you make a mistake can be pulled back out in a second.
     
  10. 81Bronk36

    81Bronk36 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 178

    Thank you. I hope I can find the screws around here:)
     

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