Lawn Fungicide

Discussion in 'Fertilizer Application' started by EastCoast, Nov 16, 2009.

  1. EastCoast

    EastCoast LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 310

    My lawn was hit in June with a lawn fungus and wondering for next year any good lawn fungicides out there... something other than what HD or Lowes sells?

    I will apply as a preventive throughout the year. Also, is cornmeal a good option?
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  2. phasthound

    phasthound LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,560

    Before you do anything, you need to identify the disease. Once you have done that you will have a better idea of how to correct the problem. Fungicides treat the symptom not the cause. Using proper cultural methods will go a long way in preventing many (not all) disease problems.
     
  3. EastCoast

    EastCoast LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 310

    Mostly brown spots.... with all the rain we had in the Northeast in June (20 of the 30 days it rained).
     
  4. MJB

    MJB LawnSite Silver Member
    from Wa
    Posts: 2,869

    I'm picking up a lot of unsatisfied customers who have NRS Necrotic Ring Spot which is a fungus. They have had every new chemical available and nothing has helped that much. One guy told me he was going to tear up the whole lawn and start over. What I have found is usually there is more than a couple of problems that need to be looked into first to cure (not mask) the problem.

    To much Thatch is a problem on some of these lawns not all. So check your thatch level by pulling a plug.

    Over use of fertilizers with iron contributes to the problem as well as to much nitrogen.

    The easy part is the cure. In the spring put on these 3 products if you have a thatch buildup. Micro-Thatch, Bio-Genesis, and Pepzyme M. These mix together and can be applied diluted with water , spray it on and water it in.

    If you don't have any thatch then just use Bio-Genesis, and Pepzyme M.

    The results will get better each month. I suggest you only fertilize with ammonia sulphate during this time as this seems to help when dealing with certain funguses, and the grass greens up nicely. If you have any bare spots
    put down seed and scrath it in to the soil if possible right before treatment, and watch your lawn come back to a healthy state. At least it works well up north in northern turf grasses.

    http://ewrm.net/site/index.php?option=com_ezcatalog&task=viewcategory&id=5&Itemid=26 Email Shane and tell him Mike reffered you. The cost of this treatment is far less than the chemical options which just don't work in the long run.
     
  5. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,080

    So, EastCoast, Have you been able to figure out what cultural practices have caused your problem. You can blame it on the rain, but it should not come on that quickly to cause massive dieback.
    What is needed in everylawn is whatever it takes to grow beneficial fungi as opposed to pathogens. Discovering that point will make the difference.

    Spraying fungicides all the time is a waste of money and is making a bad situation , worse. You will be killing a segment of the beneficial fungi along with a segment of the pathogen.
     
  6. ICT Bill

    ICT Bill LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,115

    The east coast was slammed by fungal issues this spring no matter what you did, most of the strains of "disease" are water molds. They travel through the air and on the leaf through water. When it rains as long as it did, with the cool, unsunny weather it is just the perfect set up for most of them to grow

    It was literally raining fungi
    The spores have somewhere around a 3 to 5 year life cycle, if you had it this year it will be back if conditions are right

    Composted chicken manure fertilizer is surprisingly good at surpressing common fungal disease

    We also make a product that is EPA 25b exempt called NPP that is excellent at managing common turf fungal disease. It is very safe to use and is very effective. depending on conditions it has a 3 to 5 week residual

    Just remember those conditions and act accordingly
     
  7. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,788

    East,
    Corn meal won't help. I am guessing it is probably red thread--and that the heavy rains and warm weather contributed to the problem. If your weather returns to average next year--no problem. You probably have a high percentage of inexpensive ryegrass seed in your lawn, (it is susceptible). Fungicides are available, but for instance, Heritage costs about $450 per pound. If it happens year after year--then the best (most permanent) cure is to remove the old grass and go with a top-quality sod. If no, then overseed with a high-quality disease-resistant grass. Slit seed by a professional is the best bet.
     
  8. MJB

    MJB LawnSite Silver Member
    from Wa
    Posts: 2,869


    I'm just adding to my post above, I never really descibed what these products are.
    Micro Thatch is a compost digester with Bacillus bacteria combined with cellulous digesting fungi which feed on the dead thatch then put it as nutrients back into the sopil feeding the beneficial microbes in the soil. Eats about a 1/4 inch of thatch per month.
    BioGenesis 1 A Soil Amendment that reestablishes the beneficial soil microbes for a healthy lawn.
    Pepzyme M is a liquid soil fertilizer feeds microbes. 12.5 oz per acre.

    I'm not a dealer wish I was. But a satisfied customer that wants to see more people using this over fungicides. I also aggree with the other posts for using organic fertilizers.
     

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