Lawn installation by slit seeder

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by Kurto_15, Feb 19, 2010.

  1. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,929

    Ecogreen's water timer is an excellent idea, Kurto. I can talk about seeding. Sorry, I cannot give you direct advice on weed control because of contractual obligations with the company to whom I sold my business. They woud be happy to talk with you and control the weeds for you when the time arises. Licensed and insured. Their weed control is one of the best in town. Send me a note and I will have them call you.
     
  2. CHARLES CUE

    CHARLES CUE LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,090

    I use my slit seeder on bare ground after tilled and raked works great just seed in one direction. I find that bare spots in lawns are lower than the rest of the yard because there is no root mass i find that a little top soil in these spot works wonders before slit seeding. as far as weed control i find that that if you spot spray with a low rate of 3 way wont hurt new grass after its a couple inches tall. you know you will have to water all summer or some of the grass will die.
    Charles Cue
     
  3. DoetschOutdoor

    DoetschOutdoor LawnSite Bronze Member
    from S. IL
    Posts: 1,818

    I have had great results putting in lawns with the slit seeder. Having a good seed bed is the key and if ground is rock hard or too wet your not getting that. Seed in multiple directions and you are good to go. All we seed with is 5 way fescue and shade mix fescue, both great results using slit seeder.
     
  4. americanlawn

    americanlawn LawnSite Fanatic
    from midwest
    Posts: 5,846

    IMO....

    Best time to seed sunny areas in the upper Midwest = mid August thru early Sept.

    Best grass type = Kentucky bluegrass (unless you go with Tall fescue). We do not like most ryegrasses cuz they do not spread (fill in), so one often gets "rows" instead of a thick stand of turf. Also, many ryegrasses tend to get "rust" compared to most cultivars of KBG.

    Slit seeding in compacted soils may not give expected results (especially if the customer doesn't water).
     
  5. Kurto_15

    Kurto_15 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 21

    What would you guys suggest for a starter fertilizer? Also would you suggest one with a crabgrass preventer or apply something as needed?
    Thanks
     
  6. Turboguy

    Turboguy LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,966

    I would be surprised if you find a starter fertilizer with a crab grass preventer built in. Crab Grass Preventer is a preemergent herbicide that will prevent the grass seed from germinating so it is a definate no-no. Deal with any crabgrass on a spot basis and the following year after you seed you can apply a crab grass preventer.

    A starter fertilizer is usually high phosphorus to stimulate healthy root growth. Most any fertilizer listed as a starter or fall fertilizer will work fine. As someone else mentioned a follow up in 5-6 weeks with a high nitrogen fertizler is a good idea but not too heavy.

    Any Rye, fescue, bluegrass seed should work fine or any fescue, bluegrass should also be fine. Rye in a mix will eventually disappear since it can only reestablish itself through reseeding and few allow their lawns to reach a height that they have seeds. One way or the other you will end up with a bluegrass/fescue lawn. The rye comes up fast which makes your customer happy and does help hold things into place until the other seeds germinate. Personally I use a blend that is about 50% rye, 20% blue and 30% fescue.
     
  7. americanlawn

    americanlawn LawnSite Fanatic
    from midwest
    Posts: 5,846

    Never saw ryegrass "disappear". Conversely, it tends to stick out like a sore thumb and never dies out. Rye is cheap, and it germinates fast. Good deal for home builders, but homeowners suffer in the long term. (we've killed out many rye lawns cuz the customers' hated it). Our 2 cents worth.

     

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