Lawn Renovation usiing hydroseeder

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by start2finish, Aug 30, 2005.

  1. start2finish

    start2finish LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 497

    In zone 7, an existing yard with crabgrass and bremuda (not desired in this area) , I need to kill everything and reseed. There are a few area that I need to regrade so this part is simple, but using a hydroseeder how would you guys proceed.

    I need to use a turf-type fescue.

    Conventionaly I would spray with non-selective herbicide(gyosophate) almost LOL.

    Then respray after 14 days, then tear-up the lawn and prep the seed-bed and add ammendments and seed, covering with a blanket of straw.

    Is there a way to core areate and spray then follow with hydroseeding, without removing the existing dead grass? I have heard about seeding behind round-up or possibly putting round-up in the tank (hydroseeder). Also Drive has been mentioned, I assume this is a pre-emergent. Any experience with this. If this is proven I can try a test plot, my parents are after me to re-do their yard, (free of course, but they paid for it years ago, LOL) This would make a good experiment, but I don't want to do something ridiculous without some good idea of the results.

    BTW I haven't bought the hydroseeder yet, but will own one soon, just haven't picked the model or previous owner. But it will be mechanical agitation.
  2. Mowing Mike

    Mowing Mike LawnSite Member
    Posts: 95

    Todd, Drive is a post emergent I believe it kills crabgrass, clove and dandelion. I don't do hydro-seeding, but I think if you do a heavy dethatching of the yard the hydro-seed it may do OK. I am pretty sure that you can spray drive and seed soon after, but I may be wrong.

  3. If you are using a hydroseeder, why are you using straw!

    If you are tearing up the lawn, why are you aerifying?

    Won't tearing up the yard already remove the dead grass?

    I would use fusilade on bermunda grass to kill it.

    What about a soil test?

    What do you mean by " tearing up the lawn"?
  4. start2finish

    start2finish LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 497

    Maybe I wasn't clear on my intentions. I am trying to evalute a different approach. Tearing up the lawn and reseeding, adding ammendments and strawing is my back-up plan. It is how we have always done things. I am looking into a different approach and was curious if anyone had experience or expertise on this.
  5. drmiller100

    drmiller100 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 562

    you can roundup and spray an hour later.

    using a pre-emergent, then hyrdoseeding, seems kind of, well, umm, dumb.

    top 2 inches of soil needs to be not rock hard to hydroseed. i've sprayed on weeds before, and had it come in ok. customers are never impressed, but it DOES work.
  6. StealthDT

    StealthDT LawnSite Member
    Posts: 97

    I'd round up it, till it 2-3" deep, grade & powerrake, roller compact it, then sod. Let someone else figure out what to do with an old hydroseeder, save your money.
  7. I agree, but I don't like the power rake and I wouldn't use sod, I prefer seed, that way I can get the best seed variety's, creating the best blend for the micro climate that I'm dealing with!

    I would do a soil test,use round up, add admendments to correct soil chemisty, roto till 2-4" deep, level with pulverizer, seed, apply starter fertilizer, use my aerovator to reduce compaction and bury seed, then apply pelletized mulch. Finally give client strict written watering and post plant instructions.

    I find a lot of sodded yards don't make it because homeowner can't or won't water properly after sod installed. We have one county who now makes all builders SOD all area's distrub with lot size is under 30.000 sq ft! Only choice of sod is tt tall fescue or bluegrass, what happens in thoes shaded area's?

    Instead of using a hydro seeder, consider using the same material that is compressed into small pellets that can be spread with a rotary spreader at an ~ rate of 75 lbs/m. examples are penmulch, seedaide, and lebonan has one also. I spread 60,000sq, at 75 lbs/m in 3 hrs by myself!

    If you choose straw ( my opinion a bad choice), don't over apply like most people do, need only 1 to 1.5 bales/m, you want to see ~ 50% of the soil after strawing!
  8. start2finish

    start2finish LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 497

    thanks all for the opinions, I am familiar with the process without hydroseeder, and have had good luck doing such. I am defenately going to purchase a hydroseeder, not specifically for this type of situation, but for other area of our company(erosion control- specifically) I had hoped someone had found a way to do this to lower prices for the consumer and still keep our normal margin. (less steps) But as always I don't wish to cut corners to sacrifice quality.
  9. bigandy

    bigandy LawnSite Member
    Posts: 34

    I have had reasonably good luck killing a yard and then interseeding heavily. We killed the entire yard, mowed it down very low, interseeded and then harrowed to spread the gradd clippings around almost like straw. It worked well but the yard didnt need graded and didnt have bermuda
  10. shiveslandcsaping

    shiveslandcsaping LawnSite Member
    Posts: 93

    If you have an aerovater you can kill it all with round-up, aeravate it twice, then hydroseed it.

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