Lawn Renovation

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by climber, Mar 18, 2006.

  1. climber

    climber LawnSite Member
    Posts: 247

    I am an Arborist by profession, but my buddy's new house has some turf issues. The grass is patchy! I figured that we could overseed his lawn with a slit seeder. My questions are: Does the lawn need to be rolled after overseeding? What is a good starter fert. or will it burn the new grass? When is a good time to overseed (maybe now late winter)?

    Thanks in Advance,

    Any tree questions are welcome in repayment for your wealth of knowledge.

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  2. olderthandirt

    olderthandirt LawnSite Platinum Member
    from here
    Posts: 4,900

    wait till around May 1st. slice seed in 2 oposite direction ++++ Use lesco stater fert or any good low nitrogen starter fert and keep it watered lightly till its established. Don't ever roll a lawn
     
  3. Fertboy

    Fertboy LawnSite Member
    Posts: 62

    Climber,

    From the picture the lawn appears to be fairly established . You have a few options. If you seed this spring ,you will not be able to apply any crabgrass preventitive, or weed control to the lawn until the new seed matures. Also it appears to be in full sun, unless you seed early,and your buddy is reliable on watering, the new grass may suffer when it heats up. In my opinion I would try to keep the crabgrass and weeds under control,and seed early in the fall when you have better conditions. For seed starter in spring use a lower nitro fert,with a higher phos #. For fall seed fert you can go a little higher nitro. I have a lot of customers that request seeding in the spring, I tell them don't expect the results you would get , as if it was seeded in the fall. You can seed anytime ,but here on the east coast Fall is optimal. Most new lawns are already compacted from all the construction, rolling would not help much.

    Good Luck!
    Ed
     
  4. sheshovel

    sheshovel LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,112

    Thats good fertboy but I am sure the guy does not want to wait that long.I say do it now as long as soon as you are sure freezing temps are gone for the season.
     
  5. Fertboy

    Fertboy LawnSite Member
    Posts: 62

    Sheshovel,

    Like I said the optimal time is Fall, it's not the only time. The only lawns I would seed in spring are either shady, or a new construction "Bare Soil" just to get something going. Climber asked spring or fall, so I assumes he has an option. My reasoning for the fall seeding is from Labor day to Thanksgiving, the temps are gradually falling, cool season grasses love this lower stress. You seed May 1st, and in 8 weeks it's 90 degrees & high humidity,most of that grass will be stressed out.



    Climber, you can use a mix with some perennial rye, for some quicker germination for a spring seeding .

    Ed
     
  6. joshua

    joshua LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,226

    i would aerate and over seed, 2-3 passes on the aeration. seed i would use straight perennial rye. no kentucky blue for specific reasons. as far as this summer goes they are calling for another drought for the midwest so any water you friend can put down might stop something like to to happen in the future. but with that said sometimes the cost to fix is cheaper than watering, 1" of water of 1k is 624 gallons of water. never roll a lawn, rolling a lawn with a weighter roller causes compaction. if seeded 1st of may depending on germination and other factors i would say the soonest he can apply any kind of weed and feed would be mid to late june. the new grass seed will mature 2 years after seeding ( fertboy is alittle off ).
     
  7. chriscraft

    chriscraft LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 390

    There are many answers to this. judging by the local its i nice subdivision and looking at youe neighbors they appear to have sod (Bluegrass) If that is the cas i would use blue,although peren rye is ok also , it doesnt look as nice tho. We would aerate the property 4 times use 6-8 lbs per thousand of seed, apply 16-16-16 fert, apply 40lbs od calcium sulfate (gypsum) per 1000 sq feet for clay id needed,and roll with a 900 lb roller to smooth out the lawn and plant the seed that does not go into the aeration holes with the plugs on top. Ideally a topdressing should be applied on top at the depth of 1/4", We use an organic compst for this and a turfco topdressing machine. Rolling wil not be aq factor as if you aerate 4 times yo uwill br removing 40% of the topsoil and freeing up space in the soil for air nutrients roots and water to work well
     
  8. olderthandirt

    olderthandirt LawnSite Platinum Member
    from here
    Posts: 4,900

    If your plugging 40% and theres only about 60-% then you hace nothing left growing, you might as well start over and replant the whole lawn. Its for just these type of situation that slice seeders works so well.
     
  9. PSUturf

    PSUturf LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 663

    I don't think you can plug 10% of the surface with one pass of the aerator. That would be a pretty good machine if you could get that much. As far as crabgrass control with new seeding: use the pre-emergent siduron. It allows germination of turfgrass seeds but not crabgrass.
     
  10. DLS1

    DLS1 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,619

    You have so many things that are contriditory form I have learned to do. Where did you learn to do your method. Here are a few questions.
    1. That yard looks like a real mess. Why not use a verticutter instead of an aerator to get that yard looking good again?
    2. Why not use seed starter fertilizer instead of the 16-16-16?
    3. Why are you putting done gypsum down if you have not done a soil test to determine if it needs gypsum?
    4. Why are you compacting down the yard with a roller? Could it be you can come back later to make a few more dollars to aerate the compacted yard?
     

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