lawn rolling

Discussion in 'General Industry Discussions' started by ajordan193, Feb 5, 2006.

  1. eshreve1234

    eshreve1234 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 184



    Dave-

    Are you following me around? I hear that more times than not.
     
  2. ajordan193

    ajordan193 LawnSite Senior Member
    from WNY
    Posts: 460

    thanks for all the comments on here. After talking to my buddy who owns a lawn spraying company, i've decided against lawn rolling. Main reason being the compaction that it has on the lawn. I've never used that machine on a customer's lawn before and i used it on my own about 6+ years ago so i have no idea of how it is done. But i can tell you that last spring i did see a few companies going around with one of these, so i'm not completely screwed up. But thanks for all the opinions on this and i do appreachiate everything you guys have told me.

    -Andrew
     
  3. Gatewayuser

    Gatewayuser LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,734

    Anytime have a great year!:waving:
     
  4. sheshovel

    sheshovel LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,112

    Yea!at least you asked 1st rather than just doing it then asking how to fix the damage!
     
  5. mtdman

    mtdman LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,137

    Every year I get some idiot that wants me to roll their yard. I always explain to them that dragging a roller over their yard isn't going to smooth it out. To do so you need a paver roller, which isn't good for the lawn anyway. People get weird ideas in their heads about what they are supposed to do for their lawn, even if it's wrong. I always turn them down.
     
  6. cdsang

    cdsang LawnSite Member
    Posts: 17

    Not to hi jack this thread, but I am trying to grow some grass this spring in an area that doesn't have it. What would you suggest I do assuming no grass is in that area? Sodding cost to much and I don't mind waiting for planted grass. I plan on buying a lawn tractor for mulitple reasons. Should I just buy a pull aerator and a pull spreader? Thank you in advance

    CD
     
  7. work_it

    work_it LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 976

    cdsang, the first thing you need to do is address the reason there's not any grass there. Is it because of:
    1) excessive shade,
    2) excessive moisture and moss,
    3) soil conditions,
    a) improper levels of nutrients,
    - Nitrogen
    - Phosphorus
    - Potassium
    - Sulphur
    - Calcium
    - Magnesium
    b) heavily compacted,
    c) too acidic or alkali
    4) Is it mainly composed of sand or clay?
    Once you've answered those questions it'll be a lot easier to fix the situation.
     
  8. cdsang

    cdsang LawnSite Member
    Posts: 17

    Well, I havn't done any testing, but just simply looking at it, there are alot of trees and the soil does seem pretty compacted. I will admit I have tried to grow grass by useing a garden rake to lossen the dirt, then spead it, then starter fertilize it,but all I got were some patches here and there. Mainly I just used sun and shade seeds. I think that helped. I wonder if the shade ones grew the sun ones didn't. So I wonder if i got just shade seeds. I do have some moss but its very little and only in a few spots. Where would I get something to test my ground? And what is the most common best pH I would need? Thanks for the help so far.

    CD
     
  9. work_it

    work_it LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 976

    You can usually find a cheap soil testing kit at places like Lowe's or Home Depot. If you would like a more extensive analysis you may want to check with your nearest state extension office.

    I wouldn't keep waisting my money on seed and fertilizers before knowing the condition of the soil and taking the appropriate measures to correct the problems with compaction and shade.

    As for the pH levels. pH is a measure of whether a substance is acidic or alkaline, and is measured on a scale of 0-14 pH units. Thus, a pH of 7 is considered to be neutral, neither acid or alkaline. Values below 7 are considered to be on the acid side while pH values above 7 are considered to be on the alkaline or basic side.

    Generally, pH values between 5.5 and 7.0 provide an ideal balance between microbial activity and nutrient availability. With lawns there's slight variations depending upon the type of grass you're trying to grow. If I'm correct you're located in the transitional zone which gives you a wide variety of grasses to choose from. The most common for your area would probably be:
    Bermuda................................5.5 to 6.5 - ideal pH
    Fescues................................6.0 to 7.0 - "
    Kentucky Bluegrass.................6.0 to 6.5 - "
     

Share This Page