liquid fertilizer

Discussion in 'Fertilizer Application' started by steve grubbs, Sep 7, 2011.

  1. ted putnam

    ted putnam LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,531

    That may be the case. When I began dealing with these unfamiliar fungal problems, I did a little reading on them and found that they developed in the thatch layer and spread from there. Most granulars are not going to sit on top and even if they did, they would not be readily absorbed by the plant there. They would have to be dissolved making their way through the thatch layer into the root zone. That was my point in the foliar vs. granular comparison. This GMS product was developed to be absorbed through top portions of the plant, especially leaves. It is not meant to be absorbed by the roots at all from what I've read.
     
  2. ted putnam

    ted putnam LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,531

    Yes, I am 50 miles north of Little Rock. ArTurf is probably more in line with your "Latitude". It's really not that big of a difference between you and I unless it is during the Spring or Fall transition. Then, 50-100 miles and 3 weeks time can put you and I in 2 totally different stages of green up and/or dormancy.
     
  3. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,946

    I will second the custom blended fertilizer reducing disease if applied correctly. Big problem is those who actually cause Fungus with the wrong fertilizer Blend and over application of that blend. A healthy green turf doesn't need a ton of urea. in fact IMHO Urea is the worst thing for turf and the best way to get disease. I won't give away my blends but I will say they are heavy on Micro elements.

    Mancozeb Fungicide now no longer labeled for turf, was in fact nothing more than Macro application of Micro elements of Fertilizer. Mancozeb is nothing more than Mn and Zinc applied in larger quantity compared to using it as a fertilizer in smaller quantities. Zinc is a strong drying agent and can be toxic very quick if over applied.

    Ted

    a 100 miles makes a Huge difference in climate. I am 75 miles of North of Miami and have a different Climate and different plants. Heck I live on the north side of a River and while Coconut palms will grow here, They will not product Coconuts. Cross the river and the South side is loaded with Coconuts. BTW Tampa St Pete area is over a 100 miles North of me and Coconuts grow there. WHY??? Because Tampa Bay is a large body of water that cause the Tampa Bay area to be a warmer Micro Climate. Yes each area has it's only Climate and soil.
     
  4. Falcon50EX

    Falcon50EX LawnSite Senior Member
    from GA
    Posts: 999

    One more thought, I would put out GMS at .33 per thousand from my Z this spring. If I mixed Chelated micomix it calls for 2gal per thousand how would it do if applied at .33 any ideas? To my understanding and that's not saying much part of the Chelated is a direct foliage feed but what about the other parts of it. GMS is to get sprayed below 80 and with the dew still on the ground so would that also help in the breaking down of the Chelated. This is going to be trial and error to some degree. I will start on my lawn first and three others, that I maintain on a weekly basis all Bermuda.
     
  5. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,946

    .

    I have never been a fan of Ride On sprayers that have a Low volume application rate for Liquid Fertilizer. They might be OK for some low volume Herbicide applications. My L & O Cab Over has 3 tanks and separate spray set ups that don't connect in any way. I have shrub Tank that I spray to the point of Run off plus some root drench. I Have a 5 gallon a Thousand Lawn fert and insect tank. And I have the 1 or 2 Gallon a thousand Herbicide Tank depending on what I am spraying. Certainty label says 2 gallons a thousand. Celsius label calls for one Gallon a thousand.

    I admit Large volume carriers are OLD SCHOOL methods but they still work. My Toro Multi Pro Ride on Sprayer is set up to apply 3 gallons a thousand. At these rates I don't have trouble with over lapping or burn issues.

    IMHO the Perma Green / Z sprayer liquid applications should be limited to minimal fertilizer touch up in support of other complete fertilizer applications. They are designed more for very light fertilizer treatments and Herbicides. Back to my first post about how I use Organic, Granule and Liquid fertilizers in my program.


    .
     
  6. CHARLES CUE

    CHARLES CUE LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,087

    Thank you for the info

    Charles Cue
     
  7. ArTurf

    ArTurf LawnSite Gold Member
    Male, from Ark
    Posts: 3,329

    I have been wondering how low volume and liquid fert would work and finally came to the conclusion that I am going to go with 2 gallons per K with my Z Max. I will use the grey tips and go slower (see Z chart). I might use 1 gal per K if conditions are perfect and then water with irrigation.

    Read this info.
    With fertilizers, it is always over 2 gallons per 1000. My actual rate of ammonium N or nitrate N will influence the range. If I am going over 1/2 lb of non CRN nitrogen, it is sprayed out in 2 gallons per 1000. If it is over 85 at the time of application, water volume goes up to 5 gallons per 1000. I have had grass scorch before I was able to irrigate the application in if the water volume was too low. Centipede gets 1/4-1/2 lb of N per month 50% from CRN. St Augustine is 1/2-1 lb of N up to 33% is from CRN. Bermuda is 1-11/2 lb of N 33% from CRN. Zoysia is at 1/2-1 lb 33% CRN. N is not the only thing I am applying either. For all grasses, there is up to 1/2 lb of K from potassium nitrate in each application. The lower rate of the range is for the cold, and cloudy months. I really have to pay attention to the weather trends. Pushing grass with high rates when the temps are below 80 in the day and 70 at night is a waste. However, if I do not have enough fertilizer down when it is 80 at night and over 80 in the day time leads to grass that looks really bad.

    I have applied at 1 gallon per 1000, but that is very scary. I only get away with it if it is cool and humid. Otherwise, grass can burn before you can irrigate. On big lawns, I am spraying right ahead of the irrigation zones as they go on if I am am applying anything over a 1/2 lb per 1000 mix.
     
  8. ted putnam

    ted putnam LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,531

    I will not apply fertilizer to a lawn using low volume liquid apps unless it is a true foliar feed. If I had a much lower customer count I might consider it. There are too many variables for me to deal with and unless you are extremely careful, it can be a recipe for disaster. 80% of my customers do not have irrigation systems so watering immediately afterward is not possible for the most part. I don't visit my customers lawns once a month. I am there every 7 weeks so spoon feeding is out of the question. I am OLD SCHOOL in many ways also but I try to keep an open mind to new equipment, products and techniques that will make my life easier...IF THEY WORK. I still do my pre-emergent apps with a hose reel and gun at 2gpm. We are about 3 days away from finishing my Fall pre-emerg. We've spent 6 wks spraying 5.5 million ft sq using this method.. I did a few huge accounts with the Z spray just to see how low volume liquid apps of pre work but still have more confidence in how I've always done it. This GMS product was developed as a true foliar feed. The info I have on it recommends not applying it if rain is in the forecast and says that it should remain unirrigated for at least 12 hrs for optimum absorption to take place. It will be a learning experience for me.
     
  9. ArTurf

    ArTurf LawnSite Gold Member
    Male, from Ark
    Posts: 3,329

    Just so everyone understands this info is from GreenDoctor.
     
  10. ArTurf

    ArTurf LawnSite Gold Member
    Male, from Ark
    Posts: 3,329

    I am the opposite of you, about 80% of my customers are irrigated. (I work in irrigation also). This year must have been really tough on you with the drought. I don't have near the volume you have, just a part timer at this point. Sounds like you really have it going on. What fall pre's do you use.
     

Share This Page