loadhandler

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by Janet1116, Mar 22, 2008.

  1. Janet1116

    Janet1116 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 3

    I am in the market for a dump insert for my F250 diesel and have heard comments about the loadhandler. I have priced the EZ Dumper with the cab protector and its around $2800. The loadhandler is around $150. For $150 it seems like it would break after the first load. Any thoughts from people that have one and use it on a daily basis? If I can save the money I'm all for that. Or should I splurge and go with the EZ Dumper?
     
  2. pj550v12

    pj550v12 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 302

    I got one towards the end of last year so I haven't put it to a lot of use yet, but I have emptied out some big loads, prob about a ton or so and it works awesome. Its not a replacement for an ezdumper or dump body, but at $150, even if it helps out a little its worth it. It proved to be a huge time saver for me so I'd recomend it.
     
  3. kc2006

    kc2006 LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,442

    I got one in october of last year. Used it for gravel and it did a good job. I have the heavier 3000lb one with the rubber mat that you put under it. It pulled it just fine. I used it for grass too, it did extremly well for grass. Didn't do that great with leaves though. it would pull about 1/4 of the bed worth (with a 6 foot tall box on the truck), but from the wheel wells back it wouldnt get.

    If your using it for grass daily, I'd get it in a heart beat, but as said above, if your going to do heavier loads it's no replacement for a dump insert.
     
  4. LawnScapers of Dayton

    LawnScapers of Dayton LawnSite Silver Member
    Male, from Dayton, OH
    Posts: 2,574

    I have unloaded 3000lbs. of topsoil many times.....with one no problem......also 4 yards of mulch....easily.....
     
  5. Frue

    Frue LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,472

    Splurge on the dumper. I have used a load handler for about 3 years. It does rock dirt and grass very well. Now mulch and leaves are difficult to remove. Once you get a dump insert you will never go back to the load handler. I bought a ez dumper 2 years ago and beat myself in the head for not getting one sooner.
     
  6. JRS Landscaping

    JRS Landscaping LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 817

    i just bought a down easter dump insert i kicked myself like frue said i should have bought it sooner
     
  7. nosparkplugs

    nosparkplugs LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,445

    Something better & cheaper, I use a 8ft solid oak pallet at the front of my trailers, I wrap a 25ft 12,500lb rated nylon vertical I-beam lift strap under the load, making sure not to loose track of the end, or you cannot unload the trailer. We then go to our organic lawn & landscape debris recycle center, or you could find a large tree. We hook onto the recycle center wheel loader, which slowly drives forward "pulling" the load off the trailer. No shoveling or dump trailer purchase necessary, use what you got. We have used this system for 7 years, a "cheap pallet will "break-up" under heavy loads. I have perfected this method, and have hauled up to 13,500lbs of debris: tree's, landscape debris, grass clippings, leaf clean-ups, overgrowth brush. Best of all it's not in the truck bed, reducing the wear & tear on your vehicles. Cost price of nylon straps & clevis hooks, maybe $200.00? depending on size & strength of materials. The law of physics apply, once initial friction is "slowly" over come(don't gas the unload vehicle or pallet will break -up) the load moves easy, regardless of size & weight, new LCO onlookers are jaw dropped, while watching us unload our trailers to this day.

    I had this trailer loaded with over 9,000lbs of tree's at the end of the job, the pallet can pull them off with ease.
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  8. Roger

    Roger LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,926

    nospark ... I like your scheme, but a couple of things aren't clear. How are the pallets lashed together, and where does the strap get connected? Is there a single strap, running from the center of the double pallet setup, laying on the bed floor to start? If so, what is to keep the two pallets from twisting in the vertical plane? If I understand your scheme right, the strap is pulling at the center of the pallets. If the load happens to require more pull on one side than the other, why doesn't the double pallet assembly turn, the heavier pulling side lagging behind, the easier one moving forward (toward the rear of the trailer)? Or, are there two straps, one on each edge of the pallets?

    Also, what keeps the pallets from twisting in the horizontal plane? By that, I mean why wouldn't the top edge of the pallets move toward the rear of the trailer more quickly than the bottom edge?

    As it sits now, in the unloaded state, the pallets are firm against the front trailer frame. But, if the two of them are not fastened together, they will not move as a unit. And, even if they moved as a unit, why would they progress to the back of the trailer in the same vertical/horizontal arrangment as they now sit.

    I understand the basics of what you are doing. But, what I am missing is how the "false endgate" (e.g. the two pallets) will move as a unit, and with the same vertical/horizontal positioning as they are when the trailer is empty.

    When I was a kid, we used the false endgate idea to unload silage trailers. In that case, the false endgate was a single structure in the front, with two rails (at the 1/4 and 3/4 points across the trailer). Each rail had a chain that ran to the rear of the trailer. A take-up shaft was mounted on the rear of the trailer. As the shaft was turned slowly, the chains took up the slack, and pulled the false endgate to the rear, bringing the load with it. In this arrangement, the endgate was a single unit, so it had to move as a unit, and having two chains pulling, it had no chance to twist on its way back.

    I ask all these questions because I have tried to configure a similar arrangement with my 5X10 trailer. I primarily haul grass clippings and leaves. I've considered the LoadHandler, but it is too narrow, and doesn't extend to the full length of the trailer. Further, I've not been able to think of a way of making the connection of the take-up roller that usually is fasted to a pickup endgate. I have thought of the same arrangement I have described with the silage trailers, but don't know how to do the pulling part. My dump site has no trees, or other objects to pull against, so I have to be "self-contained." I have considered using two boat winches, with cables running under the trailer, over a pulley at the rear of the trailer, laying in the bed of the trailer, fastened to the rails of a false endgate. But, I have not tried to implement such an arrangement.
     
  9. IMAGE

    IMAGE LawnSite Bronze Member
    from midwest
    Posts: 1,134

    Roger- I think he is using one large pallet.
     
  10. nosparkplugs

    nosparkplugs LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,445

    I use a single 8ft oak pallet, with a 850lb working load nylon rope from Tractor supply, double wrapped through the pallet, then attached with a clevis ring/hook to the 25' vertical lift strap. The only "problem" is when, I tried one weak pallet, or two individual pallet hooked together, they tended to break-up over time?. The speed at which you "pull" on the pallet determines how the load/pallet, comes off horizontal/vertical, the heavier the load easier it comes off, like I said if you just "gun" the throttle the pallet will find the easiest way off the trailer under the load, unless the load is "heavy" not grass or leafs it will break apart under a sudden "full" throttle pull, and you end up with "ropes" when your done. I have even tried making my own "pallets" only to have them break up or slip under the loads. I have tried my own "pallets" only to have the slip under the load or break-up, i spend over 500.00 on Heavy Duty Pallet construction attempt. Bottom line it works, and the more more I "strayed" from a simple pallet & strap the more it failed.
     

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