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Loading a small trailer.

Discussion in 'Trucks and Trailers' started by GrassGuerilla, Jul 28, 2013.

  1. ducnut

    ducnut LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,569

    That's a jack-knife looking for a place to happen. Well, that and no trailer brakes.

    Then, an RV-er is the holy-grail! :laugh:
     
  2. gcbailey

    gcbailey LawnSite Silver Member
    from WV
    Posts: 2,552

    That and around here, I can't figure it out, but I can't count the number of guys with a Tundra and a goose neck in the back pulling a cattle trailer... For the life of me, seeing a 1/2 ton truck with a goose neck and the tires almost rubbing the fenders.... ugh.... But I have seen at least 4 different ones in this area. Guess they've been believing that Toyota pulling the space shuttle commercial a little too much.
     
  3. gcbailey

    gcbailey LawnSite Silver Member
    from WV
    Posts: 2,552

    @ducnut... Have you noticed braking issues with your Silverado and larger wheels? Do you have trailer brakes? I've got an '04 Avalanche w/20" wheels (personal truck) and even without pulling a trailer I can tell a big difference in braking between the factory 16" and the 20"s. The last tandem axle trailer we purchased, I picked it up with the Avalanche and I don't have a brake controller either, and it was pushing me down the road. The trailer is a 6.5'x16'. I have ended up putting slotted rotors on the truck and it makes a difference, I've thought about upgrading the calipers, but the truck is almost 10 years old and 125k.

    Just wondering if you experience any issues or notice a difference with the larger wheels and brake fade or anything.
     
  4. ducnut

    ducnut LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,569

    My truck has the "handling package". It's a torsion bar truck, which rides like crap, even compared to the 4X4 models. They're definitely not the same spring rate. That package, also, came with 20" wheels, oversize brakes (12+" rotors), and PBR calipers. From 20" to 22", I noticed no difference. Either wheelset is heavy. I had the first rotors warped, within 10K miles, and I'm a very easy driver. However, my first 12' trailer had no brakes. And, that's a big deal.

    This time, yes. I knew from my first trailer, that I wanted them, this time around. I have the Tekonsha Primus controller. It's the most user-friendly of all their controllers, as it doesn't need to be level or have a bunch of setup needs. Having the towing package made hookup easy. I'll never own another trailer without brakes.

    The Silverado/Avalanche/Tahoe/Suburban from this era is notorious for having woefully undersized rotors (~11"). I've seen so many report warped rotors in under 5K miles. Chevrolet should be ashamed of what they did. Heck, they quit putting discs on the rear of these trucks. That's a definite step backward. They're more interested in profit than product performance. This is my first and last Chevrolet.

    I was, recently, detailing an '08 Ram. That truck is so overbuilt, compared to my Silverado, it was alarming. The frame, axle, and brakes are considerably heavier. I had the wheels off of it, pressure washing the entire undercarriage, so I had plenty of time to look around. I'm not looking to buy a new truck, but, seeing this one has caused me to consider a Dodge, if/when the time comes.
     
  5. gcbailey

    gcbailey LawnSite Silver Member
    from WV
    Posts: 2,552

    I put the P3 controller on our trucks last year, and it is oh so sweet. I love the boost button, you just have to remember to turn the boost off if you don't have a load or else you'll lock up the brakes even with a tap.
     
  6. jsslawncare

    jsslawncare LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,674

    The reason I said this, my camper weights 6500lbs when I don't use the load leveler hitch it puts More weight on the truck, and uses more fuel then it does when I use it. My lawn trailer weighs 3800lbs loaded, I don't notice anything difference.
     
  7. GrassGuerilla

    GrassGuerilla LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,437

    The load leveler, or weight distributing hitch, does not remove weight from the truck. Through leverage, it transfers the weight to the front axle. Shouldn't really affect gas mileage. Exception being if the rear was dragging so low as to create a bind in the drive line. IE if the rear sags so low as to create an excessive angle from the drive shaft to the rear end or tranny.

    That hitch should improve handling and braking considerably. But gas mileage? Not so much.
     
  8. ducnut

    ducnut LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,569

    Agreed, on both points.

    I've got an Andersen WD hitch. I can infinitely adjust it with only a socket and ratchet. It's surprising how much change there is with so little adjustment. It'll definitely load the frontend, if I crank up the tension. I highly recommend their hitch. Plus, it's made in the USA, unlike other common brands.
     

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