Melted Fuse

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by dnrsslr, Jun 20, 2013.

  1. dnrsslr

    dnrsslr LawnSite Member
    from Ohio
    Posts: 75

    Yes, MELTED not just blown! Here's the story: I have a Ventrac 3000 with a Kawasaki FH601V 19HP with about 650 hours. When I bought the tractor about 4 years ago, it had "charging issues" but the seller thought they were fixed. A few times, I found the fuse between the starter and the voltage regulator had melted. This was inside the fuse, at the end, not in the middle where it should blow. I eventually changed to the new style prong type fuse and thought all was good! A few months ago, I added a volt meter and noticed the voltage never went higher than a little above 12 and sometimes barely above 10 volts. Finally, started checking things and found this. How does a fuse melt inside the fuse holder like this?

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  2. BigFish

    BigFish LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,918

    The main cause of fuses melting is from poor/loose contact between the fuse and the holder, causing arcing and/or high resistance.
    A good quality replacement fuse holder is hard to find. What I usually do is take my pliers and squeeze the holders terminals together ( before you insert the fuse ) so as to grip the fuse blades a bit tighter, or you can also ditch the fuse holder and just use individual crimp on terminals and tape to secure em.
     
  3. monoshock

    monoshock LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,245

    Replace it with this. Problem solved. [​IMG]
     
  4. dnrsslr

    dnrsslr LawnSite Member
    from Ohio
    Posts: 75

    Is that a breaker, similar to a circuit breaker in a house? Does it automatically reset itself?
     
  5. dnrsslr

    dnrsslr LawnSite Member
    from Ohio
    Posts: 75

    I did a bit of searching. Would you recommend manual reset or auto reset?
     
  6. monoshock

    monoshock LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,245

    Auto, after it cools down it resets it's self.
     
  7. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,777

    Maybe the fuse is too small. Or something is drawing too much current. Or there is a short.
    But yes, as you suspect--you need to get the "charging issue " fixed. Voltage is supposed to be about 14.5 when the engine is running. About 12.8 when engine is not running.
    Have the voltage regulator checked--or replaced.
     
  8. MikeLT1Z28

    MikeLT1Z28 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,732

    Check for bad ground connections too. They will cause all sorts of issues.
     
  9. BigFish

    BigFish LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,918

    That will work. BUT, when installed in the charge wire/ circuit ya need to make sure the "bat." terminal ( on the circ. bkr. ) is connected to the wire coming from the regulator/ rectifier. Which is opposite of how they are normally installed in a circuit.

    Once again, the problem is not a short in yer wiring, but rather, poor/ loose connections between the fuse and the holder.
     
  10. dnrsslr

    dnrsslr LawnSite Member
    from Ohio
    Posts: 75

    OK, thanks to everyone for your thoughts and advice. I installed a new blade style fuse holder and everything seems to be working now. It is showing about 14 volts when running so I'm definitely getting charging! With the voltmeter in the dash I can keep my eye on the voltage and know if something goes wrong. I also removed the dust cap from the fuse holder so I can keep my eye on the fuse and fuse holder easier.

    Big Fish: Do you believe my ONLY problem is the connection between the fuse and the fuse holder? I'm surprised the original tube type fuse holder had the same problem as my replacement blade type fuse holder. In defense of your theory, the first replacement lasted two plus years and around 100 hours or so. I HOPE this is my only problem but I fear there is something else. :)
     

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