Moss

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by mulchmaster, Mar 19, 2007.

  1. mulchmaster

    mulchmaster LawnSite Member
    from ohio
    Posts: 212

    Hi all, I have never posted here before because I dont have an aplicator lics. and don't plan on getting one. The question I have is about moss. My dad's front lawn is mostly shaded and he has a tendency to mulch all the leaves, I know that is part of the prolbem, but the lawn is covered in moss. My question is how do I get rid of it? I am going to start taking care of it for him and would like to make it look nice. I removed a large maple 2 years ago so there is now a good bit of light filtering through, so once the moss is gone I can get the grass to thrive.

    Thanks Andrew
     
  2. MStine315

    MStine315 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 789

    You're headed in the right direction by thinning the trees. Raise the canopies as high as you can stand, thin them as much as you can. Beyond that, plant ground covers. Grass will never "thrive" in shaded conditions. The moss has nothing to do with mulching leaves, but rather from the shaded conditions. You could try to overseed with a fine fescue, which is more shade tolerant, and go very lean on the fert. Over-ferting a shaded lawn will cause it to thin more rapidly in my experience. Good luck.
     
  3. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Posts: 2,216

    Those tree leaves produce tanic acid which sours the soil. Do a soil test and you will find that you need lime. Use the pellet form. Lime will take about 90 days to get active in the soil but will get rid of the moss rather quickly. It will turn brown. A quicker form is dehydrated lime (Dolomite--I think) or it could be the hydrated lime. One or the other is quicker to get active. It's been so long that I forget. We usually just do soil tests in fall and apply standard lime and by spring it's active. Call the County Extention Agent and they call tell you whether it's hydrated or dehydrated. In any case you need lime. Rebel II fescue may take hold if it can get a little sunlight. Else, mulch beds with seasonal color and walks with lighted paths, add some lawn sculpture and things will look great in any yard. Plus, you won't have to mow and your yard guys won't have to spray for too many weeds.
     
  4. mulchmaster

    mulchmaster LawnSite Member
    from ohio
    Posts: 212

    Thanks for the help guys. I think I have my dad talked into removing another tree or two this spring, which should help. After the first tree was taken out the grass perked up and I think once the moss is cleaned up it will even more.
    Thanks for the help, Andrew
     
  5. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Posts: 2,216

    Put that lime down NOW before the growing season 10lb/1000sq.ft
     
  6. Shades of Green LService

    Shades of Green LService LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,011

    There are some products that are used for moss control on lawns. The Active Ingredient is Ferrous Sulfate monohydrate.
    -Jay
     
  7. EGL&L

    EGL&L LawnSite Member
    Posts: 124

    You can also use a spray solution of 6 parts water to 1 part Dawn dish detergent. This acts as a desicant and will cause the moss to dry and die. You may need 2 apps about 10 days apart.
     
  8. Moss

    Always indicates that the soil is moist, BUT moss will grow well in a high ph soil, but prefers a low ph soil, SO don't lime because you see moss, do a soil test first....KNOW your ph before applying anything that will effect the ph!
     

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