Mow-aerate-seed-CT-topdress-roll procedure for good weed control next year...?

Discussion in 'Organic Lawn Care' started by JDUtah, Sep 16, 2008.

  1. JDUtah

    JDUtah LawnSite Silver Member
    from UT
    Posts: 2,636

    Deeproots posted his weed control methods for his organic lawns. A thick and strong stand of turf is the most important thing as we know...

    I had plans to use pre-m's and spot spray some chems, but background pressure from Tree has encouraged me to stay away from it. (Thanks) So now it's committed no chems. So I need to work on things now to help me get the strong stand of turf for next year. For an organic overseeding, what do you suggest? In searching I found these basics...

    1-Mow lawn short
    2-Core aerate
    5-Compost topdress, 1/4"
    6-Roll with roller to get good soil/seed contact
    7-If needed, irrigate to keep moist

    What would you add or take away?

    Grass = KBG. How much seed do you suggest per 1,000 for an overseed? How short do you suggest the KBG is mowed? Anything else you can think of? Oh, and FYI slit seeders are unheard of out here, no rental stores have them.. nothing.
  2. dishboy

    dishboy LawnSite Platinum Member
    from zone 6
    Posts: 4,234

    I would do a heavy fall fertilizer pushing growth and root gowth.
    Would not mow any shorter than 2.5 inches for cool season grass, would only aerate and over seed if turf was VERY sparse. I would not roll/compact the seed bed and only aerate heavily if lawn was thin enough to warrant over seeding. Would focus on monitoring water using deep infrequent watering and making sure water is reapplied before turf stresses. Heavy fall fertilizer with grains will build worm populations negating need for aeration IMO.
  3. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    I just toss the over-seed onto the lawns and topdress with compost.
    If there is no real reason to aerate why do that step? Its like mini-tilling and brings more weed seed to the surface.
  4. DeepGreenLawn

    DeepGreenLawn LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,372

    I aerate, overseed and then water... come in with a fert for my regular customers as another service, allows me to sell a program to any new customers as well. I am thinking that next spring, early spring, that I will possibly aerate and overseed again if the lawn is not doing to well... if I had a good source of compost I would do that as an added service to help with the germination. One day that will be a given... but until then... it is a costly added service due to labor for the most part...

    Aearate, overseed, topdress, water. The compost will also be the fert... then possibly hit again in the early spring if needed...
  5. dishboy

    dishboy LawnSite Platinum Member
    from zone 6
    Posts: 4,234

    So what's the protein or N content of that compost you are calling fertilizer?
  6. treegal1

    treegal1 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,911

    the one compost he has in his area is almost 11% N ,IMO that should be blended down to 2.5-.5
  7. JDUtah

    JDUtah LawnSite Silver Member
    from UT
    Posts: 2,636

    Thanks for the input guys
  8. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,308

    HUH??? :cry:
  9. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    Thanks, Kiril.
  10. Dooger54

    Dooger54 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 46

    I question whether it's best to overseed and then topdress. If you topdress at 1/4" I would think that could bury your seed to deep. I think you only want the KBG seed about 1/8" deep.

    Why not topdress first, then overseed (about 3-4# per 1000) then rake in.

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