My Planned Pre-M Schedule, look ok?

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by rvsuper, Jan 26, 2003.

  1. rvsuper

    rvsuper Senior Member
    Posts: 930

    OK I am planning, too to put down some Pre-M on my lawn this spring: From what Lesco told me this is how I should do it:

    Towards the middle/end of April, put down half of the reccommended rate of Lesco Pre-M on my lawn.

    6 weeks later, put the other half on.

    Does this sound good for an Iowa climate? Would results be better if I put down both fertilizer type Pre-M and Liquid Pre-M such as Dimension, Treflan, Prowl, etc, or should I just go either fertilizer type or liquid?

    Thanks, Alex
     
  2. KirbysLawn

    KirbysLawn Millenium Member
    Posts: 3,486

    Here I put down 50% in late Feb and the other in April, with the cooler climate in your area that may be correct. I have found that split applications work very well here.
     
  3. lawnstudent

    lawnstudent LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 472

    What are you trying to control with the Pre-M? Usually you use a Pre-M to control grassy weeds in a turf which are very difficult to remove once established. Crab grass is the most common grassy weed of concern. In general, Pre-M's last about 6 weeks (read the lable). The reason for a split application is to lengthen the period of protection. Crab grass needs a soil temperature of 55 degrees for several consecutive days to germinate. Put your Pre-M down a week or two before your soil temperature reaches this point to control crab grass. Here is Chicago we usually see these soil temperatures some time in May. So late April or early May is a good time to apply in my area, if we don't have an unusually warm and dry spring. Also, soil moisture affects soil temperature. Moist and wet soils take a lot longer to warm up than a dry soil. Use soil temperature in your area to determine the proper timing. Oh yea, blooming of the forsytheia bushes has proven to be a bad indicator for the application timing of a Pre-M for crab grass control. Good luck.

    jim
     
  4. rvsuper

    rvsuper Senior Member
    Posts: 930

    How far apart do I do the applications?
     
  5. If you are using "pre-m" then you are using pendimethaline.

    I would rather use a "pre-em" like dimention and apply once.
     
  6. rvsuper

    rvsuper Senior Member
    Posts: 930

    LGF:
    What's the fertilizer ratios for Lesco's Fertilizer with Dimension? Is it true that I heard that they come in bags that cover 12,500 square feet?

    Thanks
    Woody
     
  7. Most of your Pre-em(M)'s are going to cover the 12,000 range.

    Don't know lesco's %..

    I use a 5-5-20 .13% dimention.

    fert1.jpg
     
  8. BLL

    BLL LawnSite Member
    from MD
    Posts: 89

    I had 19-3-6 but i think you can go no phoz also.
     
  9. Decali

    Decali LawnSite Member
    Posts: 62

    If you are using pendimethaline you really don't have to worry much about putting it down too early. I've heard of people in your area putting down their crabgrass preemergent in the fall. It isn't going to leach through the soil profile and it won't break down until soil temps rise in spring/summer so get down the first of the split aps and forget about it. The timing of the 2nd application of the 2 is somewhat more critical but I think the 6 week intrival on the label is assuming warm soil temps and good germinating conditions for the crabgrass. In early spring you should have a longer application window. As far as the carrier is concerned, the crabgrass won't know or care if the preemergent was applied with a water or fertilizer carrier. Just don't use the fertilizer form at an inappropriate time of year for your turf.
     
  10. IGROTURF

    IGROTURF LawnSite Member
    from CHAR NC
    Posts: 34

    Guys not all pre-ms go out at 12000s.f.
    The spread rate is determind by the herbicide rate per acre.
    here in the south with a "Pre-M" product we would put down 1.5 lbs of ai per acre Mid to late Feb then another 1.5 lbs in 8 week.
    With dimension .25 twice at the same timing as Pre-M or .38 lbs of Dime when the soils were at 55 degrees for early post control plus season long pre control.
    You must do the math on your ai% on the bag of product and know your rates.
    A .13% will not treat as far as a .15% this means it cost more per 1000 s.f. Do not buy on bag cost.
    Igroturf.
     

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