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My plow is acting a little funny...

Discussion in '<a href=http://www.plowsite.com target=_blank ?>Sn' started by SlimJim Z71, Jan 28, 2001.

  1. SlimJim Z71

    SlimJim Z71 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 691

    On Saturday, I pulled the pump cover off of my plow to check all the electrical connections (since SnoWay's are popular for bad connections) in anticipation of snow this week. I noticed a few wires going to one ground point that were a little loose. So, I went and grabbed my sockets and went to tighten it, only to find that the hole was already stripped out. These wires were grounded straight to the pump-motor case. Since I was unable to find a slightly larger bolt to put in there, I took it off and made a new ground on the plow fram itself. I cleaned all the paint off the area, ran the new bolt in, and the coated it with dielectric grease. Good solid ground now.

    But... I've noticed that sometimes when I hit the switch to move the plow up, after I let go of the switch, the plow will keep moving up for about a second or two AFTER I let go of the button.

    Think this is something to do with the new ground? Or does it sound like the valeves/solenoid are sticking?

  2. Alan

    Alan Member
    Posts: 1,185

    I would definately want the grounds going to the motor case. Grounding to the plow frame adds resistance through the various contact points between the frame and the pump/valves/motor. Second choice would be to ground to a point on the valve block. Failing all else you could pull one of the bolts that holds the motor to the valve block and ground there. I'd hesitate to do that as the through bolts holding the motor together and to the valve block are kinda crappy and don't tolerate much removing/replacing. Also, if you have to pull the motor at any point, be VERY careful about over torque on those bolts. They will stretch and end up bottoming out in the holes where they go into the valve block. If they bottom then they will twist off before the motor draws up tight. If you break one by bottoming it it is a lot of hassle to get it out. Voice of experience on that issue.
  3. SlimJim Z71

    SlimJim Z71 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 691

    I'm guessing you're right on the "grounding to the motor" part... but I didn't want to go drilling a new hole into the motor. It was a really short bolt holding those grounds on there, and I was trying to find another short one that had a little large bite to it, but I couldn't find any. Maybe if I have time tomorrow, I'll give it another look...


  4. plowjockey

    plowjockey LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 332

    When I had my Harley I found heli-coils to be my saving grace for any aluminum bolt holes.
  5. DaveO

    DaveO LawnSite Member
    Posts: 238


    The grounds go to the motor case for a good reason. Just like your starter's gnd is connected to the engine, not chassis. Connecting them to the frame itself may not be good enough. Find a way to attach them back to the case. A lot of current flows thru the motor ground.

  6. wyldman

    wyldman LawnSite Member
    Posts: 182


    I know your problem,as it happend to us in the last storm.We used a metal epoxy stick to get it through to night.I unded up drilling out the stripped thread,and used a carriage bolt,with a slim head,inserted from inside the motor and held on with a nut and lock washer.This gives you a stud to connect your ground to,and it will never pull out of the motor.

    Keep an eye on the quick connect electrical plug too,as these have been troublesome for us.They don't corrode at all,they just don't always make good contact,which will cause the blade to do strange things.We have replaced them with the westernfisher type repair plugs,and no problems since.

    You may also have a sticking solenoid or switch,as it is what controls the motor.Even if a valve was sticking,when you let go of the switch,the motor should stop,and so should the blade.

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