Need help Green Bay WI lawn-Bad rust

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by hjmaus, Jul 17, 2008.

  1. hjmaus

    hjmaus LawnSite Member
    Posts: 13

    I was wondering if anyone could give me some advise on what to do with my lawn problem. Ive been searching the net and decided to turn to the professionals hence this post. I definately have lawn rust. Most things I read say nothing except cultural practices should be done but its really severe. The kids and dog (white dog) come in orange everytime they go outside to play. We have had a lot of rain here which Im assuming isnt helping much with the rust. The lawn was fertilized 2 weeks ago, but I havent seen any effects of the fertilizer application at all. Attached are some pictures of the back yard. Its ugly. If any of you are servicing the green bay area Im looking for someone to do applications as well. How severe warrents a fungicide and do they even help.

    Thanks

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  2. ICT Bill

    ICT Bill LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,115

    Please do not not spray, things that are toxic to your children where your children play, please
     
  3. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,108

    Heritage, Bayleton,Banner, Eagle or Insignia, sprayed and allowed to dry before anyone is allowed to go back on the grass. The fungicides I would not want dogs or kids exposed to are banned from residential turf. That is why Daconil is labeled for golf and sod farm use only.
     
  4. FdLLawnMan

    FdLLawnMan LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,182

    An application of a good slow release fertilizer will cause the grass to grow right out of the rust. I would use a 50% slow release at 1 lb of N per 1000 Sq. Ft. Is this a new lawn because it sounds like it? The bottom line is you have too much perennial rye grass in your lawn. Perennial rye grass is more susceptible to rust, especially the first few years after seeding. Kentucky Blue Grass is a much better choice for your area. I am only 1 hour south of you so am familiar with you problem. I myself would not spray a fungicide as I think that is way overboard for rust.
     
  5. PHS

    PHS LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 724

    I was just looking at my Banner Maxx label and this may be a dumb question but why is the mix rate for rust so much higher on turf than for ornamentals? I've sprayed many a tree for rust (willows mostly) using 2oz/100g with good results. I've never sprayed turf for rust but 1-2oz/1k is a considerably higher mix rate.
     
  6. hjmaus

    hjmaus LawnSite Member
    Posts: 13

    Now im mad my lawn has a lot of perianial rye in it. If we overseed it how should that be done. Do we aerate and then just broadcast seed or do you suggest slit seeding it?

    The fertilizer that was put down 2 weeks ago says it was 32-0-8 35% scu (not sure was scu means) after the guy left and i walked the lawn i barely could find any fertilizer on the grass so im pretty sure he was very very skimpy with it.

    fdllawnman, since you are an hour south, can you recommend any good lawn care companies in my area??
     
  7. grassguy_

    grassguy_ LawnSite Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Posts: 633

    MOre than likely if you havent seen some response to a treatment 2 weeks ago and it was 32-0-8, then it may have been applied way too light! Can imagine with fertilizer prices going through the roof and the amount of rainfall your areas have been getting, it was scrabbled over with very little product. Most times, when properly applied, nitrogen is capable of producing enough growth to grow the rust out of the lawn. I would go ahead with another application of fertilizer int he .5-.75lbs of N range, rather than going thru the added expense of the fungicides. They will by far cost more than a few subsequent fertilizer treatments. noticed the one pic shows that the rust is on a bank, which direction is this bank facing? Also if there are landscape beds near by, are there any Barberry bushes? Barberry emits the pathogen which promotes rust. Usually rust will persist in areas where dew can persist longer in the AM too, but not always true. Mancozeb was a wonderful fungicide for rust years ago, but since has been done away with. If you have the ability to slitseed bluegrass into the establsihed lawn and so desire, it may lessen the severity of the rust next season, but wont totally eradicate the problem. Rust is usually more cosmetic to lawns and when conditions change that are lesser condusive the disease with usually go away. Up to you if its worth the added cost of introducing blugrass into an existing Rye lawn, but know Rye will always be the dominant species. BTW, scu means Sulphur Coated Urea.
     
  8. americanlawn

    americanlawn LawnSite Fanatic
    from midwest
    Posts: 5,861

    IMO -- the only surefire way to prevent rust is to kill out all the ryegrass, then reseed with resistent cultivars of Kentucky bluegrass. We've done this many a time, and it always works. Some of our own land grant university people like a ryegrass/bluegrass lawn, but if you check Ohio State, you will find that they too have little respect for most ryegrass cultivars due to the high susceptability of rust....we totally agree.
     
  9. 44DCNF

    44DCNF LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,462

    Home Lawn.....I had it for a few years and have not seen it for two or three now. I lightly overseeded once with new varieties of KBG, cut back on my fertilizations and used more slow release when I did. I quit watering, more more often, and I also used more organic stuff the rest of the year, and began cutting much higher. It was more of a problem at 2 3/4", less of a problem at 3 1/4" hardly a problem at 3 3/4" and gone since cutting at 4 and 4 1/4". I think your high nitrogen # may have a lot to do with it.
     
  10. FdLLawnMan

    FdLLawnMan LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,182

    Do a search for Mow Ed. He is out of DePere and has been doing lawns for years.
    Doing it the right way would include killing the lawn with Roundup and then slit seeding it with a mix of Kentucky Blue Grass and no more than 10% perennial rye grass. Or you could seed a 100% mix of Kentucky Blue Grass like I did three years ago. It is by far the best looking lawn in the area, it stays green, grows less and has virtually no disease problems. I agree with American, perennial rye grass is crap. Just remember, KBG takes 21 days to germinate so you need patience.
     

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