need help in NC

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by brian g, Jul 31, 2009.

  1. brian g

    brian g LawnSite Member
    Posts: 13

    hey guys whats going on?? i am having issues with my lawn and i hear different things from so many people..but i want to get answers from the pros!!

    so this is my lawn about a month ago..people would stop and tell me how beautiful it was...
    [​IMG]

    now no one even looks it
    i took these yesterday
    [​IMG]
    im guessing that it is being taken over by crab grass?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    i live about 30-40 mins from Charlotte i have hard clay for soil
    i water mon wed sat with hunter pgp rotors for 45 mins since it has been in the mid 90's since the start of the season
    i used milorganite two times this season and used a weed and feed in the start of the season...and in a last ditch attempt i put down some more weed and feed and nothing changed
    HELP!!!


    thanks
    brian
    the whole lawn was grown from scratch with fescue and a starter fertilizer
     
  2. brian g

    brian g LawnSite Member
    Posts: 13

    oh and i think i posted this in the wrong section...sorry
     
  3. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Posts: 2,174

    Brian: When was the lawn put in? Young grass could have been stressed by the weed and feed. (What did you use here?)
    Watering cycle should be OK. I suspect a fungal problem on first glance. (Photos 2/3)
    Your grass needs (FOOD). Fescue is about the easiest grass to grow and will go dormant without water but greens up with cooler and wetter temp. You seem to have that covered with the irrigation.
    Go to Tractor Supply and get "Daconil" and double strength it in a watering can; put it on those dead spots. It will not help the grass grow but if it is a fungus problem, it will slow the spread. You really need to get some T-Storm granulars from Lesco and give the whole lawn a application. Let them stay on the lawn without irrigation for 24 hours. Then irrigate. These are relatively inexpensive treatments and will not take place of Heritage or Insignia fungicides because they are liquid and applied with high pressure sprayers.
    Also get a fertilize with 50% slow released fertilize (and some micro-nutrients; apply and irrigate. The lawn really needs a liquid fertilize that you could feed slowly and a little more frequently. Tell the Lesco (John Deere Landscaping) guy that you'd like a higher potassium sulfate and slow released nitrogen. He'll want to sell you fertilize with potassium chloride! A better choice would be potassium sulfate.

    Anyway, follow up with the fungicide, fertilize, water, and give it a little time. For now just pull that crabgrass as much as you can stand. That stuff isn't much of a problem IF the lawn is healthy.

    Roy
    Do you have a lot of crabgrass? If so, let's get the lawn healthy before trying to kill it. Just kept it mowed close enough to get the seed heads, bag the clippings, and take them to the landfill. A good IPM program would try to prevent spreading the annual--No seeds--no plants. Lots of folks forget about late seeding of crabgrass when they quit mowing and the seeds lie in the ground until July when the heat returns.
    You could apply a Speedzone or Trimec but these are liquid and I do not know if you have any equipment to spray them. Gilmore makes a great hose-end applicator that you could use BUT let's wait on that till the fungus (if it is that clears) and the grass is healthy from the fertilize
     
  4. brian g

    brian g LawnSite Member
    Posts: 13

    i am going to print this out and bring it to my lesco (John Deere Landscaping)guy around the corner...

    so i should bag and not mulch...that sucks since i have to buy the attacment for my mower (its a troy bilt rider)

    the lawn was started by the builder late august-early september and when i moved in i went to town removing big rocks and appling new top soil from lowes with pennington fescue and the scotts starter fertalizer...

    have you ever heard of or used milorgantie?
    http://www.milorganite.com/home/
    i think i missed the july feeding...could that be my issue along with fungus?


    thanks for your help!!
     
  5. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Posts: 2,174

    Good Evening Brian:
    Yes, I know milorganite:
    Primary Nutrients Secondary Nutrients Micronutrients
    Nitrogen (N) Calcium (Ca) Iron (Fe)
    6.75% 0.98% 5.30%
    Phosphorus (P) Sulfur (S) Zinc (Zn)
    2.65% 0.71% 0.05%
    Potassium (K) Magnesium (Mg) Copper (Cu)
    0.46% 0.50% 0.03%
    Manganese (Mn)
    0.03%
    Boron (B)
    Trace
    Chlorine (Cl)
    Trace
    Molybdenum (Mo)
    Trace

    This stuff just is not potent enough to sustain grass in summertime. With only .46% of potassium which is so important for root development and growth, it's no wonder that the grass is looking that way. I won't say anymore about it other than it is about the same as peeing in the ocean.
    Yes, you need to get rid of the infested fungus grass or else it will spread. You could rake it and put it in a plastic bag. How much lawn do you have in increments of 1000sq.ft.? Bagging also helps to prevent annual weed seed from spreading. Always bag....always.

    It would not hurt to put that Daconil with a watering can. You can cover something like 500 sq feet of turf with that 2 gallon can...

    Let it dry and then use the T-Storm (Cleary's 3336).

    Post another photo in a couple of weeks after you put down your fertilize. I bet you will see a drastic improvement. I'm not familiar with the inventory of the Lesco at Charlotte but be prepared to spend a few bucks. Measure your yard so you can tell the Lesco rep. He will tell you how much a bag will cover. If you can get something like a 16-0-23 with potassium sulfate, those analysis will help develop the root system.

    Fungus is a problem anywhere the humidity is high along with high temps. Make sure you are watering in the mornings rather than in the evenings. Water stays on the grass blades tends to develop fungus greater than dry grass during the cooler night temps.

    Roy

    I'm over here in Kingsport, TN...about 4.5 hours from you. Fungus around here is prevalent also.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2009
  6. brian g

    brian g LawnSite Member
    Posts: 13

    i dont know the square footage off hand...i will have to check that out..i just hope i can get this under control soon
    thanks for your help so far
     
  7. tombo82685

    tombo82685 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 288

    Milorganite is fine during the summertime, you just have to know how much your putting down. Their is no difference if you put down a half lb of milorganite or a half lb or the 16-0-23 on a nitrogen level.
     
  8. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Posts: 2,174

    Milorganite is fine during the summertime, you just have to know how much your putting down. Their is no difference if you put down a half lb of milorganite or a half lb or the 16-0-23 on a nitrogen level.

    I understand what you are saying. The problem is the ratio of Nitrogen to the Potassium. Grass needs as much or more potassium than nitrogen. In your analysis, if this product is used then your Nitrogen ratio is 13:1. Using a fertilize with a ratio of 1:1 (Nitrogen to Potassium) would benefit the plant way more especially during the growing season for root development and also going into a dormant state. A healthy root system stores the nitrogen for the winter and is so necessary potassium prepares the plant for stress of sun, drought, and cold. The high iron of this fertilize makes a good show. I think the photos speak for themselves on the sustainability of the grass. My lawns are fed every month with a custom mix liquid on a 1:1 ratio with the correct type of Nitrogen and Potassium for the soil and plant type. I also add proper Iron and Micro-nutrients for the grass type; generally about $5-6/1000 sq. ft.
    To Each his Own--
    Roy
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2009
  9. brian g

    brian g LawnSite Member
    Posts: 13



    pics of your lawns?
     
  10. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Posts: 2,174

    I'll be fertilizing in SC this weekend and will shoot some--no problem. There are some already on here but I can't remember the thread from a year or so ago. However I'll post some on this thread.
    Roy
     

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