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need Help!

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by popacop, Apr 20, 2007.

  1. popacop

    popacop Banned
    from NY
    Posts: 5

    I have a new customer that said they have had lots of crabgrass in the past. what should I put out to get the best control some guys tell me barricade but I have a freind at a golf course that said he can get me some stuff called Ronstar. Has anyone ever heard of it I know I have not. Please be gentle I am just starting out and need all the help I can get.:)
  2. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Posts: 2,194

  3. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,956


    Ronstar is not labeled for home lawns. It may never be labeled for home lawns and the label is the law. Yes Golf Course use it big time right next to your home lawns. Drive 75 will control Crabgrass on Cool season turfs POST Emerge.
  4. popacop

    popacop Banned
    from NY
    Posts: 5

    thank you ric, my buddy never told me that he said it was ok and that it would work better than anything else. so is it too late for a pre emrge? I am sorry for all the questions I am still very green in this area of chemical apps.
  5. Victor

    Victor LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,637

    Email me through my website. Go to par5lawncare.com and click on the "contact us" button. That will allow you to send me your email address. We can talk at length that way. Normally I'd PM you, but I recently found out that any member who doesn't have at least 25 posts can't receive PM's. Talk to you soon.
  6. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 12,205

    Popa in New York,

    I agree Barricade is a good bet. Between the second and fifth mowing is ideal. For best results go with a second application 6 weeks after the first.

    And...you want to control goosegrass, too --right? So use it goosegrass strength. And charge accordingly. Pay particular attention to thin spots, and hot sunny areas. Crabgrass is seldom a problem in the shade.

    Next year improve culture. Thick grass, well irrigated and cut tall has a lot fewer problems.
  7. americanlawn

    americanlawn LawnSite Fanatic
    from midwest
    Posts: 5,859

    Sounds like you are in a Kentucky bluegrass market???

    Also, you better make sure your customer is not confused with perennial vs annual grassy weeds.

    Lawns like you described are usually poorly maintained (low/infrequent mowing, etc)

    Here's what we do when we pick up new customers with shelled-out lawns & crabgrass:
    1) We apply two crabgrass treatments 6 to 8 weeks apart (R1 + R2).
    2) Then we recommend they seed their lawn in late August with a 4-way blend of Kentucky bluegrasses.

    Mowing is the key: a lawn that is mowed "short" can be as much as 30 degrees hotter (at the crown of the plant) than a lawn that is mowed at a 3-3 1/2 inch height during hot weather. Bluegrass is a "cool-season" grass, so it does not do well in summer when mowed short. Also weedeating "down to the nubs" along the edges is very harnful. If they're mowing or trimming too short, it won't matter much how many chemicals you apply.

    Not sure where you are, so you might want to contact your local land-grant university.

    Also, Victor is a trusted source - check out his post. He knows his stuff.
  8. Victor

    Victor LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,637


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