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need price on tree planting

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by oneandonlyjojo, Sep 28, 2004.

  1. oneandonlyjojo

    oneandonlyjojo LawnSite Member
    from NY
    Posts: 125

    guy wants 2 white oaks installed in his back yard. they only had red oaks so if he wants these wat kind of tips can i get never planted trees b4 but could handle it most likely

    2 1/2 foot was 180 minus 20%
    2.5-3 foot was 220 minus 20% ( and another thing the lady on the phone sounded confused so i dunno if that was the price for 1 or 2 so once he says he likes the red oaks im gonna call again to check the pricing)

    any help would be appreciated
  2. jbell113

    jbell113 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 654

    Are you saying that a 2 1/2 foot tree was $180 dollars
  3. rick2752

    rick2752 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 161

    just guessing here but I think you mean 2.5 to 3 inches. That is how big the tree is around the trunk.
  4. oneandonlyjojo

    oneandonlyjojo LawnSite Member
    from NY
    Posts: 125

    this is why im saying the lady wasnt sure whats she was saying so she confused me. well if anyone knows when they give sizes of the tree do they mean the trunk? maybe the bottom roots? or height.

    im 99% positive she said 2.5 feet not inches. and the price is most likely for both
  5. olderthandirt

    olderthandirt LawnSite Platinum Member
    from here
    Posts: 4,900

    trees are measured in caliper size approx 6" above the root ball. so you were getting a price on 2.5 inch tree or a 2.5-3 inch tree. The weight of these trees will be in the hundreds of pds so be prepared for that.

  6. Coffeecraver

    Coffeecraver LawnSite Senior Member
    from VA.
    Posts: 793

    Total price installed my calculations:


    Unless it dies within a year from too much water or not enough
    I re-plant no charge but charge for the tree,the first year.

    Mac is right you will need help to remove the tree from the truck and plant it.

    Good Planting Techniques:

    Three relatively new guideline are suggested for planting trees:

    1. The hole should be NO DEEPER THAN the root ball,

    2. The hole should be three to four times WIDER than the root ball, and

    3. Mulch should cover the ENTIRE planting hole, but NOT be piled onto the trunk of the tree.

    Contrary to popular belief, the burlap material should be removed because it may not dissolve below ground. The best suggestion is to remove all of the burlap. But at the least the top third of the burlap should be cut off to allow new roots to grow unobstructed.

    Cut off the top run of the wire basket before covering with dirt.
  7. Dig-it Landscaping

    Dig-it Landscaping LawnSite Member
    Posts: 108

    I heard that if you remove the burlap the trunk will become loosely atattched to the root ball. i always learned that all you should remove on b&b is the string if it is plastic not jute. The caliper of the tree is probably what they are giving you the definition of caliper of a tree is the diameter of the trunk 1' from the crown of the plant. Just my .02
  8. NNJLandman

    NNJLandman LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,306

    Never remove the burlap thats pointless, a landscaper should know that burlap will basically break down and deterioate over time. Dig your hole as deep as the root ball and about a foot wider, cut off the string(which will also break down) off that is around the trunk of the tree, roll the burlap down so that the top flat part of the root ball is exposed. Mix the curent dirt, a little top soil and a little peat moss together and fill the hole in completely even the top part. Then mulch around the top part. Before you mulch it is important to water the tree, take a hose take the nozzle off if there is one and jus let it run at the base of the tree as if you were gonna drink out of it for a while move it around let the dirt settle and make sure you let it go for 15-20 mins you can cleanup during this time, put tools away etc. this way the tree will be sure to get water. Good Luck.

  9. Coffeecraver

    Coffeecraver LawnSite Senior Member
    from VA.
    Posts: 793

    Cut balling ropes. Pull burlap down at least 1/3 of the way; slit remaining burlap to encourage root growth. If in a wire basket, cut away top section.

    The wire basket can girdle the tree roots I have seen many examples of this.

    I cut and pasted that phrase without proof-reading it.
    (The best suggestion is to remove all of the burlap.)
    I disagree with the entire removal of the burlap like most of you do.

    Not all burlap breaks down,some are made of synthetic material and can
    cause root girdling. The statement above only considered that type.
  10. D Felix

    D Felix LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,898

    You must also find the root flare before you backfill. The root flare should be placed at, or slightly above, grade.

    I've seen the root flare be anywhere between 0-6" down inside the root ball. Only on about 2-3 trees in the last 3 years has it been right at the top. Usually you have to dig carefully into the root ball to find it.

    Planting the tree without setting the flare at or above grade greatly decreases the tree's chance for long term survival, even if it does survive it will not be very healthy.

    All that being said, I agree with what Norm has said as well.

    If you are doing the job solo, get as small of a tree as you can find. I could probably handle a 2" tree without too much trouble, but I would NOT want to try a 3" tree solo. 2.5" would be really pushing it. But, then again, I've been dropping trees in the ground for 8 years now, and have learned a few tricks along the way....



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