New house, old system

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by clintwolf, Sep 24, 2007.

  1. clintwolf

    clintwolf LawnSite Member
    from mi
    Posts: 7

    We just purchased this house, with an in ground irrigation system.
    The system doesn't want to work. We turn the pump on, which sounds good, and we have primed it via the top (see images). We have let it run for more then 30 min multiple times, but nothing. Please help.
    We have replaced the check valve and one union.
    (see attached images)




  2. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 48,003

    Are there two well points on this system? Look for suction leaks.
  3. clintwolf

    clintwolf LawnSite Member
    from mi
    Posts: 7

    Yes we think there are two points, however one point goes out of the pit, and 5 feet under ground. The other point you can see. after letting it run for 30 min, we have taken the top cover off the exposed point, and you can hear the pressure.
  4. 04superduty

    04superduty LawnSite Member
    Posts: 60

    is that a lake system, specifically at gull lake?
    never mind, it looked like a system i worked on at gull lake.
    are the 2 gate valves open?
  5. clintwolf

    clintwolf LawnSite Member
    from mi
    Posts: 7

    well we have tried it with them closed and with them open...
  6. NC_Irrigator

    NC_Irrigator LawnSite Bronze Member
    from NC
    Posts: 1,416

    Check the intake line for clogs or problems. Next step, replace pump with a submerisble in the lake.
  7. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 48,003

    You'd prime it with the gates closed, and the faucet 'cracked' open. If the points are clogged, you'd have to try to force water back down the points. Then pump. Then backwash again. Then pump. Lather rinse repeat.

    A vacuum gauge attached to the suction side of the pump would give you some useful information.
  8. clintwolf

    clintwolf LawnSite Member
    from mi
    Posts: 7

    We shot the one point.. (with a 22) and used acid tablets.
  9. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    First off, That check valve isn't going to really do much. You need to have a foot valve on the bottom of each point, or you will not be able to stay primed.

    That check valve is essentially useless.

    Next, to confirm that the well points have a proper foot valve, close both gate valves.

    Remove the cap on the tee where the well point is, Thread another tee into it. Put a pressure gauge on that tee, and a hose connection/boiler drain.

    Hook up the the hose connection to whatever water source you have and see if you build pressure. If you do not, then there are no foot valves on the well points and the pump will never work.

    If you do build pressure, then you know you can properly prime the pump.

    At this point, its time to install a pressure gauge on the hose bib on the discharge side of the pump. Run the pump, and see if you build pressure. If you do not, then its time to dismantle the pump.

    Pull the housing apart and take a look at the impeller. If it is trashed, then replace the pump.

    Otherwise, you may have a massive clog in the well point, and no way to draw any water.
  10. clintwolf

    clintwolf LawnSite Member
    from mi
    Posts: 7

    This was an existing system. i really don't see how they would ever set up something that had no chance of working, so I'm assuming that all required parts needed are there. We replaced the check valve because the union it was joined to was leaking, and we could not get it disconnected.

    after running the pump for awhile, you can take the cap off the T and hear a hissing sound as the pipe looses pressure.

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