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New Lawn Install???

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by yardatwork, Apr 17, 2013.

  1. Turboguy

    Turboguy LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,966

    Just out of curiosity what equipment would you use to do the job?

    My experience is limited to hydroseeding. I think a slit seeder is good for lawn renovations and repairs but would agree it wouldn't be my first choice for a new lawn install. The two options I would look at are hydroseeding or applying the seed with a spin spreader and topdressing with compost but I would enjoy hearing what your approach to doing the job would be. Straw would be another option but not one I would consider as good as the other options.
  2. Snyder's Lawn Inc

    Snyder's Lawn Inc LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,541

    What I use
    Skidsteer to grade .
    Rear tine tiller helps on grading.
    Do my final grading apply fert/lime prep for seed bed I use my(( turf shaper)). They don't make it anymore, I bought it in 1981 it stirs ,drags, levels, and seed all same time
    When ran 2 different ways The lawn will be smooth will have seed bed depth of 4-6 ''
    Then I cross it with a hand seeder then Blow straw if needs it I'll glue the straw.

    For Hydro seeding Everything up above beside appling seed with the truf shaper
    Before I hydro seed I'll boardcast 1/3 of seed down before the hydro seed. Put 2/3 in the mix Blow the mix on the ground.
  3. maynardGkeynes

    maynardGkeynes LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 409

    Even though I do think the NTEP research has been invaluable, I also agree with what you say, because experience over may years is the best teacher. But to defend what I posted in a friendly way, I have discovered a lot of bad cultivars being put in the cheaper stuff since I can see how pathetic they did in the NTEP studies. It's made me realize that with seed, you get what you pay for, and when I see a blend with Midnight and Courtrard KBG, Uno and Defender PRG, etc etc I know that company is really doing quality stuff. The main thing is too read the regional tables, and find a supplier that is doing a professional job by paying attention to what the latest and best is. In MD, we have Newsom Seed located in Fulton, Maryland and let me tell you, those guys do their homework, so you don't have to read a lot of studies.
  4. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 12,215

    I agree Maynard.
    And...OP, take a careful look at the seed label. Look for indications that the seed company cut corners. Are the germinations all at 85 percent? That is the legal minimum. 90 percent is better. What is the percent weed seed? Below .1 percent hopefully. "Other crop" is bad as it means foreign grasses like crab or quack. And take a careful look for noxious weed seeds per pound--many times this means annual bluegrass--very undesireable. Check to see if it is old: last test date and "sell by" date. I don't do much seeding, myself.
    Turbo Guy has good experience, perhaps he can advise you as to the climate suitability for the four main species, blue, rye, fine fescue and tall fescue.

    And I agree...try to find varieties that did well in your area in the NTEP tests. Is it hot where you are located? Shady? Is the site irrigated?
  5. Turboguy

    Turboguy LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,966

    I am happy to help in any way I can and am seeding in the same area as the OP. I am not sure what part of W. PA he is from but he has to be close so he would be using the same types of seed I would. We are usually a bluegrass, fine fescue and rye grass blend. Tall fescue we just use for stabilizing hillsides.
  6. Snyder's Lawn Inc

    Snyder's Lawn Inc LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,541

    I agree to what you are saying I know my seed company been in business since Thinking was around 70 years and They do there homework to

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