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New Paver Help

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by traviswalker007, May 15, 2007.

  1. traviswalker007

    traviswalker007 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 182

    Hey guy's, I am doing my first brick paver install this week, 500sqft of Rivenstone from uni-lock. I read all the manuels and was wondering if anybody outthere could lend me some advice. I have 2 crews on commercial lawns and hardscaping seems to be were the money is at so im branching out a bit to test the waters. I bid it at 15.00 sqft, so I hope i did ok on that aspect of it...any advice..
  2. Kizzelwhix

    Kizzelwhix LawnSite Member
    Posts: 22

    make sure its flat?

    what kind of advice are ya lookin for?
  3. PatriotLandscape

    PatriotLandscape LawnSite Bronze Member
    from MA
    Posts: 1,209

    Next time don't bid by the square foot you'll just lose money.
  4. traviswalker007

    traviswalker007 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 182

    did i bid it too low, 7 grand for 500 sqft with no paterns or cutting?? I dont want my first customer to think i took advantage of him... and another thing is this type of brick hard to install, its a basic rectagle 14ft wide by 40ft long with a small ledge on one side two high with a cap?? what should i look out for so it dont look like ****
  5. Lite4

    Lite4 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,112

    Hey travis, I have installed a lot of pavers over the years, however am not familiar with the unilock. Probably just a regional thing. We charge around $18-$25 per sq. based upon access, quantity of cuts, types of curves employed in the design and how much you have to excavate and remove. You should be fine at around 15. Expect material to run you around 5.75 per sq. with pavers, edging, base, fabric etc.. plus your labor. Nice easy square like your talking about will be a good learning job for you. I'll give you my $.02 for what it's worth. Build a good compacted base as you normally would with road mix 4-5" deep. Next step: put down a layer of non-woven geotextile fabric over the entire area to be paved. Next use about 3/4" of a 3/16th or 1/4' pea gravel for your setting base. I know everyone tells you to use sand, and I used to but here is why I made the change. #1- sand is angular in nature and will initially settle a little bid until fully compacted, this can cause a wave in your work. #2- sand will eventually get relocated by pesky ants and your pavers will settle irregularly. Pea gravel is round not angular so it will not settle. It is rather like a bag of marbles you can't pack those when you stick your hand in, only disperse them out of the way. Also ants won't be packing off your gravel. I they do, I would consider moving to another part of the country. (yikes) Anyway the fabric layer keeps the pea gravel from pushing down and mixing with your base material. The result, an extremely hard patio that you will never have to revisit to level a paver. Use a paver joint compound in the cracks. Sweep in and water. Sorry this thread is so long, Good luck to you.

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