Non selective herbicides / spot spraying beds

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by stellingsbox, Jul 31, 2013.

  1. stellingsbox

    stellingsbox LawnSite Member
    Posts: 3

    I have done some searching but can't find what I am looking for. I am seeking a cost effective herbicide (or combo) for spraying landscape beds, sidewalks etc that won't bleed and has a residual. Location is NE Wisconsin. I use to mix glyphosate/Vegemec but Vegemec got crazy expensive. Sahara works well w/glyphosate but is tough to mix in a backpack and seems to settle out overnight. I have also tried Gramoxone which works well to burn weeds down fast but has no residual either. Glyphosate alone is too slow and has no residual. We do treat most of our beds w/Snapshot or Barrier in the spring, so we're just seeing breakthrough. I also am curious as to how you price spot spraying weeds? We have been charging by about how about much we use but it's a lot to track. Some of our larger properties can take up to 4 gallons a week just in the asphalt cracks, aprons etc. Any advice is greatly appreciated. And of course I am licensed and certified.
  2. andyslawncare

    andyslawncare LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 812

    I'll also follow this to see responses. Maintenance walks with back pack sprayers weekly, currently no pres used in beds.
  3. stellingsbox

    stellingsbox LawnSite Member
    Posts: 3

    Good point I didn;t mention....We also walk our beds weekly
  4. americanlawn

    americanlawn LawnSite Fanatic
    from midwest
    Posts: 5,852

    Pre breaks down quickly in gravel/concrete cracks, etc due to high temps. We stopped using Sahara many years ago >> runoff, tree roots, etc, etc. The safe way to go is: Roundup -- then maybe spike it with LI700 & ester broadleaf herbicide. my 2 cents
  5. M&L

    M&L LawnSite Member
    Posts: 245

    I've been pretty happy with oryzalin/Gly, its fairly cheap. But its just so.... Orange... I only use it on dirt and mulch because of the colorant.
    I bill most of my chemicals by charging time plus about 10% more than what HD or lowe's sells the watered down version for, if its a common type and I have it on hand.
    If you treating with something not as common, call the Weed Man and see what they charge.
  6. grassmasterswilson

    grassmasterswilson LawnSite Platinum Member
    from nc
    Posts: 4,550

    Wish there was a good answer. I normally mix gly with an 80/20 surfactant.

    In the past I have mixed some prodiamine in the tank but couldn't tell much.

    Beds will break down pre very fast.

    Sureguard? Isoxben?
  7. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,064

    What's breaking through? I have zero tolerance for broadleaves due to the lack of selective options around ornamentals. Grasses whig me out less. That is why I like Ronstar Flo applied as a higher volume directed spray under and around shrubs with a surfactant. Ronstar is just like Sureguard or Goal in that it will burn holes through the leaves of whatever it touches. Add Diquat to make sure. I alternate between Dimension and Specticle for grass control, but grass is not a touchy subject because most ornamentals tolerate sethoxydim.
  8. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,064

    Vegemec????? As in 2,4-D + prometon. Wow. Gramoxone? Very few people even dare to type that name. You may only apply Gramoxone to industrial areas and agricultural sites not open to the public. No such thing as a cheap PRE that also does not bleed. I would try to use what is selective to surrounding ornamentals and trees. The cheapest herbicide becomes expensive when you have to excavate contaminated soil and try to replace killed trees.
  9. grassmasterswilson

    grassmasterswilson LawnSite Platinum Member
    from nc
    Posts: 4,550


    In years past I've tried to apply a prodiamine/gly/surfactant mix from a solo backpack sprayer. Now my rates could be off or the ability to cover the entire bed with this mix could be the culprit. Or maybe lack of agitation. I would mix this and spray or spot spray from feb-April while with the mowing crew.

    By the time July/aug I start to see nut grass, some crab, spurge, and some broadleafs.

    As part of our mowing we include spot spraying beds and it is one of my biggest complaints from people.

    So if any of you guys care to share how to make gly "hotter" I'm all ears!! Better yet if you have a tested mix for prevention them that may also save me some money. Could be a very good add on once we can show the results to customers.
  10. Mark Oomkes

    Mark Oomkes LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 12,399

    ProDeuce has worked pretty well for us. Mixed with Finale.

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