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Nut Grass pokes through

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by ed2hess, May 10, 2014.

  1. ed2hess

    ed2hess LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,200

    This is some landscape that I have to maintain even though we didn't but it in.:cry: could this have been avoided? No cloth in the bed area.



  2. bcg

    bcg LawnSite Bronze Member
    from Tx
    Posts: 1,835

    Honestly, I think nutsedge comes in the mulch sometimes.

    I've been having very good success treating beds with a mix of SedgeHammer, Fusilade and Barricade. 4 applications a year have been keeping the beds completely weed free, including control of common Bermuda and nutsedge.
  3. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,064

    Only way to keep it from emerging is Casoron applied at rates toxic to most plants. Otherwise, Certainty or Sedgehammer after it emerges. I also use RoundUp at a 33% dilution painted onto the Nutsedge. Some plants will not take Sulfonylurea herbicides applied near them.
  4. ted putnam

    ted putnam LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,539

    Nutgrass in ornamental beds around here comes from the soil they use in those beds. They tout it as "sandy loam" but what it really is, is nutgrass infested river dirt from the Arkansas River bottoms.

    Ed, I don't think it would really matter. I've seen nutgrass punch through every landscape fabric known to man...

    I use sedgehammer because it is labeled for use around about 400 different ornamentals. I believe use around junipers, cypress, etc... should be avoided.
  5. ed2hess

    ed2hess LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,200

    The landscaper instructed us not to use any chemical so we get payed to hand dig it out.:clapping:
  6. TurfWerks

    TurfWerks LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 316

    BS you cant pay me enough to dig that crap out... Id use sedge hammer on the nutgrass for sure.. Ted is right about Arkansas.. Nutgrass infested river dirt!!!
  7. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,064

    Unless you are planning on excavating 48" of dirt out, any kind of digging is a mission to nowhere. I get to clean up lawns and landscapes where the previous weed control program was digging, pulling, and cutting. Step 1: stop digging. Step 2: fertilize with a high nitrate fertilizer so every single weed that is laying in wait shows itself. Step 3: apply either selective herbicides or non selective herbicides in a selective manner. That last one refers to painting on 33% RoundUp in areas where sulfonylurea herbicides will not be selective.
  8. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,064

    Then that "landscaper" can dig his own damn self. What kind of stupid instruction is that? Is he trying to pizz off the client who is going to see that the nutsedge is not only surviving, it is also spreading? Never mind that his client is paying for something that is not going to work long term.
  9. ed2hess

    ed2hess LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,200

    I am not quite as confident in chemicals making the stuff disappear. it is like dallis grass, I'm back. And you can't let the nut grass in the bed while the spray works. And in the end you have to dig it out. I was looking for a silver bullet kind of Pre-m.

    The landscaper is an organic person and a women. Not that it matters.
  10. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 12,218

    Maybe she will OK something organic--bill her separately for the nutsedge-pulling crew's hours. Maybe she will get a bit more flexible.
    Non-chemical methods to try. Vinegar. Steam or boiling water. Flame torch--but of course this usually sets the mulch on fire. None of these will affect the roots of course.
    Print out the labels and MSDS for , Roundup, Dismiss and Sedgehammer--and let her choose the least toxic of the three, being sure to point out that Weed b Gone is more toxic. Likewise vinegar.

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