Nutsedge

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by TPnTX, Nov 29, 2007.

  1. TPnTX

    TPnTX LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,775

    Im a little frustrated. I thought I had read enough and figured out the sedghammer is what I need to treat nutsedge in beds. So I go to get some today from Lesco and the guy tells me Yeah I'll sell it to you but it's too late and won't do any good. Plus I also though that it would be okay to use in beds with Mondo grass. Apparently I was wrong about that too. Image that doesn't do as good a sedgehammer is what you use there. But again too late in the season.

    So is there anyone here who can give me a complete explaination how to handle sedge.

    I guess all I can do now is pull it. '
    Will it stop after the first good freeze?
    If a Pre-M won't work for it, when do begin treating the beds in late march?

    thanks
     
  2. MOW PRO LAWN SERVICE

    MOW PRO LAWN SERVICE LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,567

    HANG ON,indyturf will show.
     
  3. TPnTX

    TPnTX LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,775

    have I activated the "Bat Light" over Gotham?

    The "Weed Light" That dont sound right.

    Hey someone should name their company "Got Weed?"
     
  4. EagleLandscape

    EagleLandscape LawnSite Platinum Member
    Male, from Garland, Texas
    Posts: 4,347

    Nutsedge is an annual. Let it die.
     
  5. JoeinJasper

    JoeinJasper LawnSite Member
    Posts: 173

  6. TPnTX

    TPnTX LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,775

    uh...okay.



    Thanks for the link JoeinJasper that helps
     
  7. Slyder777

    Slyder777 LawnSite Member
    from Texas
    Posts: 22

    Don't pull it. If I'm not mistaken, it will make it much worse.

    It should die soon anyway.

    JMO

    Shawn
     
  8. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Posts: 2,217

    You're going to have to dig down and get at those nutlets and roots. Sedge will come back in the spring unless you destroy the roots. Pulling only breaks off the top. If you can get down there and remove that small clump of nodules(nutlets) and extending root system, you will see. If you can isolate or just have a few in your beds, carefully use glyphosate (Round-Up) in a small spray bottle. Sedgehammer is good but if you can get the small 3oz size of "Dismiss", it work much better on all types of sedge: yellow, purple and green Kylinga than anything else on a select basis. But let me warn you--it's expensive.
    What about the rest of the lawn, do you have any there?
    There's no short answer. Roy
     
  9. TPnTX

    TPnTX LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,775

    yeah it's in the lawn as well. Not real bad yet.


    most beds have either mondo grass or asian jasimine ground cover.
     
  10. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Posts: 2,217

    OK, What is the turf? St. Augustine?
    And before I insult someone above--Sedge IS NOT AN ANNUAL. It is propagated by seed and further still by the nutlets or nodules formed by nitrogen on the roots which send out rhymozones to form other plants. The best time to treat it is in the spring just as it is resprouting. Do two treatments about 2 weeks apart. I use "Dismiss". I've used "Sedgehammer" and it does work but needs several treatments--so does the Dismiss. Your watering practices have a lot to do with the growth as it thrives in highly irrigated lawns. IF, and I say IF, you can treat it in the spring early enough to use your herbicide WITHOUT irrigations for 2-3 weeks--you've have better results. You do not have much choice in the bed except to pull it getting the roots. Water it before pulling to loosen the soil and you will get down to the nutlets a bit easier.
    Stay with it in the spring using your Sedgehammer or better still "Dismiss" about 12-14 days apart. If it is not browning by then give it another shot, but be careful, you've got a lot going on then with the transition time, nitrogen buildup from the winter, warming of soil and things wanting to grow. You could stunt your grass. Also do not fertilize too soon after the application. As Runner(Long-Time Member) would say "Timeing is Everything"
    Roy
     

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