Official 2006 sprinkler winterizing thread!

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by BSME, Aug 28, 2006.

  1. irritation

    irritation LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,225

    Ball valve is in crawl space with a boiler drain right after it left open. Test cocks on backflow were left half open.

    I truly believe alot water gets in from rain and snow melting.
     
  2. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,412

    Without a slope, it's hard to picture the water-in, air-out. A good snow-pack might make a difference.
     
  3. irritation

    irritation LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,225

    This is not the case but if a system has full circle spray nozzles without in head check valves, what is going to keep water from going back in?
     
  4. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,412

    Water can't go in, unless air goes out. You have to complete the circle. If you do two side-by-side systems, one with check-valve heads, and one without, on similar terrain, and do a second winterizing on each, over the course of several seasons, that might accumulate some data.

    Even on old systems, with brass spray heads, there didn't ever seem to be a case of freeze damage if the system was winterized.

    It just seems to be a non-issue to me.
     
  5. irritation

    irritation LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,225

    I just can't imagine an airtight lateral line. I know I don't use teflon tape for my swing pipe fittings.
    I have had frozen pipe before on lines I know have been blown out properly.
     
  6. Without A Drought

    Without A Drought LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,001

    Winteriziing runs the same initial price as turn-on/service calls. $85 for less than 12 zones, $95 for 13- 20, $125 for 20+. Commercial runs $200+.

    We tag the main valve (almost always in the house), and remove and zip-tie the handle to the pipe.

    Every customer who's blowout is after the Backflow is made aware that we cannot properly winterize anything before the POC, and we can cut one in at "X" price.

    Leaking main valves are checked at the time of winterizing and we inform the customer of the problem, tell them the price, etc.

    Any damage uncovered, or potential problems over the winter are documented on the invoice, which the customer signs.

    Nothing is covered under freeze damage. Occasionally in the spring I may warentee something, but only if it's a really good customer, or someone who just spent a ton of money on a new system the previous year.

    That's how we do.

    pg
     
  7. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    You ran each zone twice and your sure you got the water out................
    I have had other companies .......do the wrong house, blow first - knock after, etc.....in front of me. I always re-winterize and I almost always get water. Depending on the controller and how well I know the system, I always try and blow the last valve first and then run the cycle. I then re-run each valve until I get virtually no water from any of the head when I go back to that valve. I have played the on/off game with some zones for six or more times after the main is dry to get that odd low point or long run of swing pipe to evacuate. This is one of those things you "learn" after doing a few ten thousand blow-outs. Kind of like how tight to get that screw on that brass bonnet. I always liked to tell the pups that you "twist till it snaps and then back it off 1/4 turn" :) They get that dumb look and ask how you know and I tell them! "you have to break a few and then you'll get it".
     
  8. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    Got a work order yesterday that I sent my partner out on because I was busy working on a plot plan for a new school in oder to create a zone map for it. Problem stated was that a particular zone wasn't coming on with the controller. I advised him to check the controller but if this was not the problem to NOT touch the valve (I indicated where it was at on a zone map). The valve is an old Buckner brass valve with brass butterfly screw to manually activate. It is also inside a concrete box located smack dab in the middle of a sidewalk. I told him that if it wasn't the controller that I'd take a look at it and break it if necessary. :)

    Come to find out that the zone (between two buildings) was just zeroed out from roofing/AC renovation over the summer. The site guy had zeroed it out and forgotten he'd done it. :)
     
  9. Dennis Spencer

    Dennis Spencer LawnSite Member
    Posts: 108

    I'm thinking about offing a one day discount. This will be for a subdivision home owners. The home owners association will have all the info. in there news letter. It will have day, times, cost. Also without an appointment it will be first come.Any thoughts or suggestion's
     
  10. BSME

    BSME LawnSite Senior Member
    from Midwest
    Posts: 829

    I like it... most of your expense in winterizing is driving around town...
     

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