OK to Aerate 2 week before power-seeding

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by 1966vette, Nov 12, 2009.

  1. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,082

    You will get germination out of the holes, which may or may not survive long term. For even coverage at a better depth go with slit seeding.
     
  2. 1966vette

    1966vette LawnSite Member
    Posts: 209

    Thanks to everyone for all the good information!
    I live in Kokomo, IN 60 miles north of Indy and my lawn is in very bad shape. About 25% of my 1 acre of grass has been sprayed out with round-up to kill the K31. The rest of my lawn is OK but I plan to new lawn the bare spots &over-seed the entire acre.
    I plan to use Cisco Premium Sod Blend Grass seed which contain 5 different types of KBG. It is advertised at 130# / acre seed rate for a new lawn. If figure 100# will take care of the 20% bare spot & over-seed the rest. The seed cost $3.95 / #.
    Cisco Premium Sod Blend
    $3.95 / lb
    Seed rate 130 / acre ****25%
    Nu Destiny
    Kentucky
    bluegrass
    Compact midnight type
    7.1
    6.3 25%
    Impact
    Kentucky
    bluegrass
    Compact midnight type
    6.9
    6.6 25%
    Beyond
    Kentucky
    bluegrass
    Compact midnight type
    7.2
    6.2 ****15%
    Midnight
    Kentucky
    bluegrass
    Compact midnight type
    6.9
    6.7 ****10%
    Bewitched
    Kentucky
    bluegrass
    Compact type
    7.4
    6.6

    I plan to fertilize 3 times a year & cut the lawn at 4” but only water the front to keep in from going dormant in the summer heat. Watering an acre of grass is too much work w/o an irrigation system.
    Here is my current plan:
    1. Rent a power aerator & aerate the entire 1 acre – N & S then E & W – on the bare spots go on an additional 45 degree angle – estimate 8 hours
    2. Rent an over-seeder – either Billy Goat w/ seed box in front or Bluebird w/ seed box in rear.
    No specific model has been specified or recommended to date.
    Power rake the entire 1 acre – N & S then E & W – on the bare spots go on an additional 45 degree angle – ( w/o grass seed) estimate 4 hours
    3. Use pull behind lawn sweeper to pick up generated lawn thatch – 4 hours
    4. Place “Cisco – Premium Sod Blend in over seeder & cut the recommended seed rate in ½ - then over seed the entire 1 acre going acre – N & S then E & W – on the bare spots go on an additional 45 degree angle – estimate 8 hours
    5. Roll the lawn w/ any empty roller to press the seed into the soil
    6. Apply starter fertilizer in early spring 2010.
    7. Watch the grass Grow!!
    Thanks!
    Andy
     
  3. 1966vette

    1966vette LawnSite Member
    Posts: 209

    Thanks to everyone for all the good information!
    I live in Kokomo, IN 60 miles north of Indy and my lawn is in very bad shape. About 25% of my 1 acre of grass has been sprayed out with round-up to kill the K31. The rest of my lawn is OK but I plan to new lawn the bare spots &over-seed the entire acre.
    I plan to use Cisco Premium Sod Blend Grass seed which contain 5 different types of KBG. It is advertised at 130# / acre seed rate for a new lawn. If figure 100# will take care of the 20% bare spot & over-seed the rest. The seed cost $3.95 / #.
    Cisco Premium Sod Blend
    $3.95 / lb
    Seed rate 130 / acre ****25%
    Nu Destiny
    Kentucky
    bluegrass
    Compact midnight type
    7.1
    6.3 25%
    Impact
    Kentucky
    bluegrass
    Compact midnight type
    6.9
    6.6 25%
    Beyond
    Kentucky
    bluegrass
    Compact midnight type
    7.2
    6.2 ****15%
    Midnight
    Kentucky
    bluegrass
    Compact midnight type
    6.9
    6.7 ****10%
    Bewitched
    Kentucky
    bluegrass
    Compact type
    7.4
    6.6

    I plan to fertilize 3 times a year & cut the lawn at 4” but only water the front to keep in from going dormant in the summer heat. Watering an acre of grass is too much work w/o an irrigation system.
    Here is my current plan:
    1. Rent a power aerator & aerate the entire 1 acre – N & S then E & W – on the bare spots go on an additional 45 degree angle – estimate 8 hours
    2. Rent an over-seeder – either Billy Goat w/ seed box in front or Bluebird w/ seed box in rear.
    No specific model has been specified or recommended to date.
    Power rake the entire 1 acre – N & S then E & W – on the bare spots go on an additional 45 degree angle – ( w/o grass seed) estimate 4 hours
    3. Use pull behind lawn sweeper to pick up generated lawn thatch – 4 hours
    4. Place “Cisco – Premium Sod Blend in over seeder & cut the recommended seed rate in ½ - then over seed the entire 1 acre going acre – N & S then E & W – on the bare spots go on an additional 45 degree angle – estimate 8 hours
    5. Roll the lawn w/ any empty roller to press the seed into the soil
    6. Apply starter fertilizer in early spring 2010.
    7. Watch the grass Grow!!
    Thanks!
    Andy
     
  4. Stevegotcrabgrass

    Stevegotcrabgrass LawnSite Member
    Posts: 248

    Sounds like a plan. I don't get why so many people say not to seed and aerate at the same time. I have had great results doing this. I drop 1/2 the seed. Aerate the Hell outta the area, then drop the other half of seed. Topdress with a little moss. after germination I will THEN add starter. This works for me. I have never done it on a NEW lawn though. I do it to thicken up an existing lawn.
     
  5. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,720

    No problem with aerate & seed so long as there's some type of soil scarifing equipment (a.k.a 'slice-seeder') following the tracks of the core aerator.

    The key to germination success is maximizing seed-to-soil contact as much as possible. This can't ususally be accomplished by the use of JUST a core aerator.

    I like your idea of dropping 1/2 the seed 1st. I sometimes do this with a spreader B4 aerating, then let the slice-seeder drop the other 1/2 once the cores have dried out a little.
     
  6. 1966vette

    1966vette LawnSite Member
    Posts: 209

    Another important lawn seeding question:
    Is it recommended to rent a power rank w/ flexible tines or can I use a Bluebird w/ rear seeder or Billy Goat w/ front seeder with fix tines?

    I’m planning to start a 1 acre lawn dormant seeding rejuvenator project new week.
    Y/day, the lawn equipment rental salesman indicated that I need to rent a single function dethatched “Classen” with flexible tines prior to using an over-seeder to remove the thatch and improve seed to soil contact. However, I was planning on running a Bluebird or Billy Goat over-seeder with fixed tines w/o seed to open up & remove the thatch. Then follow up w/ the over-seeder w/ grass seed. Which method is preferred?

    Thanks for everyone help!
    I want to do this right the 1st time!
    Andy
     
  7. turfcobob

    turfcobob LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 878

    Here is somethng else you can try that will help. Drag the lawn after the cores are about half dry and will break up nice. You can use a keystone drag mat or and old piece of chain link fence with some steel posts tied to it. Breaking up the cores drags the dirt and seeds into the low spots and holes.
     

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