Old school weathermatic valve question

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by SPLC, May 2, 2006.

  1. SPLC

    SPLC LawnSite Member
    from Zone 5
    Posts: 51

    Doing a head repair for a family friend, I'm unfamiliar with how the weathermatic valve is manually turned on. This system was probably installed in the early 80's judging by the ancient controller.

    On the valve there's a bleeder and the solenoid itself. The whole 1/4 turn like the Hunter valves doesn't work. Anybody know how to manually turn the valve on?
     
  2. Rainman7

    Rainman7 LawnSite Senior Member
    from NY
    Posts: 288

    Plastic or Brass?

    There should be a little lever in front of the coil on the valve.
     
  3. troc

    troc LawnSite Member
    Posts: 19

    I believe on the outlet side of the valve their should be a small flip lever that you can rotate upwards. This manually opens the valve. If their is dirt around the valve or you can't see well you kind of have to know where and what your looking for to find them. Somebody tell me if I'm wrong about this as I'm referring back to an old golf course system I used to run.
     
  4. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 46,486

    Ancient brass valves will open when you loosen/remove a small plug from the top of the valve (manual bleed)
     
  5. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    Boots nailed it.

    I like to use the bleeder even on new valves. Seems like chances of the valve sticking open is decreased when you use the bleeder versus turning the solinoid.
     
  6. SPLC

    SPLC LawnSite Member
    from Zone 5
    Posts: 51

    It's a plastic valve.

    So is there a lever to flip or am I to loosen the bleeder and then the solenoid itself ( or some other combination)?

    Loosening the bleeder just shoots out a little jet of water from the valve, loosening the solenoid just lets some water run out in the valve box.
     
  7. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    Open the bleeder up a bit more, and the valve will open. Keep the solinoid tight.
     
  8. jerryrwm

    jerryrwm LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,274

    If there is a bleeder screw on the valve, and the valve is plastic, then it is not a Weathermatic. The old brass valves of nearly 30 yrs ago had the brass bleeder on the bonnet.

    The original plastic W*M valves had a flip lever under the solenoid facing downstream.It was originally made of brass, and then of plastic.

    To operate the valve manually, flip the lever to the full up position and the valve will open. Reverse it and it will close. If the diaphragm is worn out and in bad shape this may not open the valve either. You can make the valve operate by loosening the solenoid more than one turn. Just be careful that you don't remove it completely. Those fine threads are a pain to keep straight when the water is hitting you in the face!

    If the valve has a manual bleeder screw, either in the bonnet or in the middle of the flow control stem, you may have to remove it completely to make what ever brand of valve you have operate.

    Jerry

    OH yeah...Ancient is not the 80's !!!!
     
  9. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    Some like the Buckner brass valves have a butterfly screw that when opened allows water to flow out the center of it and actuate the valve. Be very careful with these as they are prone to break if not used in a long time and seized up.
     
  10. SPLC

    SPLC LawnSite Member
    from Zone 5
    Posts: 51

    Ok, so opening the bleeder screw worked and I got the zone running. Great. I'm happy.

    But after I was finished, I screwed in the bleeder screw and nothing happend, the sprinklers just kept running. And running. And didn't shut off until I shut the water valve off. Waited, turned it back on, sprinklers still ran.

    How do I get the valve to close now?:hammerhead:
     

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