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Discussion in 'Fertilizer Application' started by TPnTX, Nov 8, 2009.

  1. ted putnam

    ted putnam LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,531

    Well said... Let's see should I apply a pre-emergent once and control 95% of the weeds for 95% of the growing season in marginal areas of the lawn or skip it because of temporary root pruning and pound the dog sh!t out of it every 6-7 weeks with 2,4-D, MSMA, quinclorac or anything else that might be in our bag of tricks in an attempt to keep weeds under control...and let's not forget...the customer off our back?? Some things are just beyond the LCO's control...and some things aren't. In business(and let's face it, most of us aren't doing this for a hobby) the ultimate goal is to keep the customer happy. To me it's pretty obvious of the methods discussed which causes the least amount of impact to reach the ultimate goal.
     
  2. Whitey4

    Whitey4 LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,448

    Not all pre M's are root inhibitors. Your basis for this arguement is flawed.
     
  3. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    :laugh: That's not even nice... :laugh:
     
  4. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    There is no altering the 6 step program for the 3rd party squirt 'n fert guys. Fall would work, but that is when the second round of blanket broadleaf is sprayed. Just as the seedlings are emerging. No room for the 3 week window, because our season is so short, especially if the use granular.
     
  5. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,765

    New seedlings can sometimes withstand a properly applied weed control. When it says on the label "Do not apply to new seedling" I suspect they are just being cautious. They don't want to pay for your new seed. It is not unusual for customers to seed in the spring--yet I seldom hear of anyone having to reseed due to herbicide treatment. Grass is not a broadleaf--new grass or old.
    But maybe you can get the 3rd party to hit it early, say first week of Sept. Sow your seed second week of Sept. Or...Sow your seed at the time of warmest soil temp (and quickest germination) 2nd week of August. Try to get them to delay fall weedo until late Sept. Or trade for a late October winterizer feeding. They should not object as long as they get paid the same.
     
  6. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    I played that game for a while and got nothing. Finally told the HO they would have to fire TGCL if they want me to grow grass, which some do. I won't even try to grow grass for people who maintain a separate squirt n fert service.
     
  7. Hoots

    Hoots LawnSite Senior Member
    from DFW
    Posts: 327

    Just curious how you are preventing crabgrass with a November application? Or are you talking in general?

    With our overseeded properties, I normally do not do a fall pre-emergent application. If the rye is thick enough and healthy enough then there are minimal weeds that we spot spray.

    To the argument for most everyone on this subject, (what it has gone to) the best pre-emergent is a thick, healthy, aggressive turf.

    I still do a split app in January and early March to keep a handle on crabgrass and poa. Just please don't label me a tree hugger from the above sentence.:laugh:
     
  8. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    No dice... you're a bluddy tree hugger... "don't do unnecessary applications..."
    Well, doo-dee-doo. ... you're probably a Communist too... :)
     

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