orange/bronze blades

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by mrkosar, Jun 27, 2006.

  1. mrkosar

    mrkosar LawnSite Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Posts: 664

    Is this lack of nitrogen or some sort of disease? It isn't rust or red thread. Possibly underlying leaf spot? Or is it just lacking nutrients? If so, which one or ones? Senior members help a rookie out. I am giving it a pound of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. per app. every 7 weeks. Five times a year that should be plenty of nitrogen. Anyone?

    orange grass.jpg

    more orange.jpg

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  2. TurfProSTL

    TurfProSTL LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 693

    Looks like Leaf Spot.....
     
  3. olive123

    olive123 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 500

    2 words... fun gus:drinkup:
     
  4. mrkosar

    mrkosar LawnSite Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Posts: 664

    it looks like hundreds of lawns have this problem under the new growth. will it grow out of this with changing conditions and more fertilizer? don't most lawns have leaf spot, but you usually do not see the damage very often?
     
  5. Turfdoctor1

    Turfdoctor1 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 705

    i don't know what the temperatures have been like in your area, but if you apply a pound of nitrogen every 7 weeks in the summer time to a cool season lawn in Arkansas, you are going to have more diseased grass than healthy grass. Excess N + Excess H20 + hot = fungus/disease/not a happy lawn.
     
  6. GreenUtah

    GreenUtah LawnSite Senior Member
    from SLC, UT
    Posts: 866

    5 lbs pf N per growing season is on the high side, but look how wet this turf is in what looks like a midday-time shot. If you keep a soggy lawn and pair it with high humidity, you'll get everything in the book. If these lawns have irrigation, deep, infrequent cycles will yeild more than any other change you can make. If the water stands from rainfall or ??, don't be afraid to aerate the turf in mid summer to allow better airflow as well.
     
  7. upidstay

    upidstay LawnSite Bronze Member
    from CT
    Posts: 1,369

    Back off on the N. To much. You are asking for a disease. Aerate once or twice a year, have a soil test done to determin pH and nutrient requirements. Water twice a week for a longer period. And don't water when it is very humid, unless the soil is dry. Buy yourself a soil probe and pull a plug to determine soil moisture. Use a good quality, balanced fertilizer. Cheap fert is cheap fert. Consider using an organic too. I like Sustane 10-2-10 or 18-1-8. Nice bridge product. Has some Nutralene in it, along with composted poultry litter. Gives a nice, even green without promoting the quick flush of growth that turf diseases love to attack.
     
  8. FINN

    FINN LawnSite Senior Member
    from PA.
    Posts: 280

    As far as aerating in mid summer........what about "cooking" the root system in warmer temps? I've aerated "problem" greens on golf courses in the summer where we had control with irrigation and also topdressed after aerating. If you can't water and topdressing is not an option how good is it to aerate. I like aerating and it has a lot of benefits but I'm curious about what to expect this time of year.
     
  9. B&B

    B&B LawnSite Member
    Posts: 57

    I 've seen the same in centipede, All that was needed was water, here in south ga. we are in drought conditions.
     
  10. GreenUtah

    GreenUtah LawnSite Senior Member
    from SLC, UT
    Posts: 866

    Sorry for the long delay in answering this, but as far as "cooking" out root systems, reality is that your tine depth will be likely at a 4" max, with most cores popping at 2.5"-1" or less, depending on the soil type. so it unlikely on a deeper(than golf course cut) turf, that there would be a significant amount of root (esp. on bluegrass or fescue lawn,which can run roots in the 10"-4' range deep!) exposed to the hotter air to affect the turf in a negative way. Anytime that you can allow for proper drainage, air and fertilizer movement is a good time, as far as I'm concerned. I've opened clay in 100 degree plus temps with no topdressing and no burning issue. Also remember that air temp and ground temps, even just at the thatch layer, are two very different things. Bottom line is, if you are having a problem that aeration will help solve, do it when you need it. :dancing:
     

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