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Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by redspot321, Jun 27, 2008.

  1. redspot321

    redspot321 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 60

    Thanks to all who have replied to my past post. You all have been very helpfull!

    Details of lawn.

    Zone 10
    Palm Bay, Fl
    8 year old lawn
    Atrizine application every spring ( when it was available)
    Image applications for spot treatment in the summer for onion, nutsedge etc.

    MY problem Crepping Beggarweed!!!!!!!!! I cannot kill this crap.

    Heres my houes from the curb. 85% of the yard looks good

    A close up of the good stuff

    The bad stuff.... Beggarweed!!!!!
    I would say 15% of my yard has patches of this stuff.
    I have treated with Image herbicide which turns the weed yellow but seems to come back stronger! I have mannually pulled large patches but the roots just break off, the root system runs under and between the St. Augustine grass roots.

    I applied a second spot treatment to the worst areas of the lawn and this is what itr looks like. It damaged the lawn far worse that the weed. (im glad I did a spot treatment!!"

    What will kill this stuff?!?!?!?
  2. heritage

    heritage LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,268

    I'm a Cool season guy, But I did look at some labels and Trimec Southern Can be used.... so Long as your St. Aug is NOT Floratam Variety, and temps between 50-90F for 3 days (72 hrs). Re-Spray in 3 weeks.

    Spring to Early Summer best time for Post Control.

    Just a thought :)

  3. dave k

    dave k LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,178

    Do you use pre emergent in the spring and fall?
    Have you asked a local company what they use?
    To me it may need a broad leaf post emergent.
    Keep us posted.....
  4. Hortus

    Hortus LawnSite Member
    Posts: 72

    Outside of finding the main stem of each plant and swabbing the cut with a herbicide, providing further detail of the cultural practices for the lawn, such as your watering/fertilization program, type of fertilizer used, micronutrients, amendments, ect., it would provide a better picture to advise.
  5. redspot321

    redspot321 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 60

    I do have Floratam:hammerhead:

    I did NOT use a preemergent this year due to atrizine being pulled. I did however use a scotts weed and feed at first green up in the spring.

    Heres my normal schedule for the year.

    March / April - atrizine when it was available and Bonus S weed and feed

    June / July - I use a good fertilizer with a lower Nitrogen number in the lower 20's Not scotts

    Octobert I use a 14-14-14 Not scotts

    I use a preventive insecticide in March and august

    I use a preventitive fungicede in July

    I water only when my blades of grass shrivle up, deep watering only when needed.

    Ive never added or tested for nutrients lime etc, will this have an impact on weeds?
  6. heritage

    heritage LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,268

    If I may comment on your watering Practices, I do believe you should be watering Deeply, and frequently , as you have sand in FL.....Sand does not hold H2O.

    But I would NOT wait until "Blades Of Grass Shrivel Up".......This IS KEY, to minamize Stress, as it is a Good Cultural Practice, which would allow the turf to Thicken/Thrive.

  7. CuttingEdge LLC

    CuttingEdge LLC LawnSite Member
    Posts: 132

    St Augustine requires 1 inch of water once weekly per zone. The beggarweed seems to be in drought stressed areas, where it is normally found in St. Aug. Get these areas recovered and then start spot treating them. Pulling some until recovered will help. If you continuously spray herbicides into damaged areas then they will stress more.

    Manor is good for this. A few treatments and it will knock it out....
  8. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,064

    0.3 gram of Manor or Blade per 1000 sq ft. Do this after the lawn has been fertilized and the irrigation is on point. A second application may be needed in a month.
  9. Hortus

    Hortus LawnSite Member
    Posts: 72

    This is key as you move forward and make this the first step and yes, your soil composition has a definite impact on weed growth, positive or negative. When you pull the soil sample, break up your yard in sections, i.e. front, side 1, side 2, back and so on. With the section in question, your front yard, take 10-12 core samples from different points of the section to get an overall cross-reference for that front yard. Please post that analysis when you receive it back.

    I concur with the excellent advice from the previous posts on your watering schedule.

    In reference to the fertilizers used and as a general FYI, reducing your Phosphorus (the middle number) to nill or no more than 2 in your choice to use, because there's more than enough naturally occurring phosphorus in our soils in Florida.
  10. bug-guy

    bug-guy LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 972

    i agree with greendoctor

    manor or blade or mansion read label as it has alot of different applications use a spreader sticker this herbicides are not usually found in big box stores and seem to be exspensive but actually covers 4 or more acres

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