Overseed or Start over?

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by Grant1994, Mar 3, 2014.

  1. Snyder's Lawn Inc

    Snyder's Lawn Inc LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,541

    take before pic and after pic and some between see how much thatch you roll up
     
  2. Grant1994

    Grant1994 LawnSite Member
    from MA
    Posts: 40

    Forgot to grab an after picture but here are some during and then the amount I collected from just the front yard about 8,000 square feet I think it really needed it the lawn already looks better less matted down!

    photo 3.jpg

    photo.jpg
     
  3. Grant1994

    Grant1994 LawnSite Member
    from MA
    Posts: 40

    The temps are starting to get warmer days in the 50's and 60's and nights in the high 30's to 40's and the occasional night in the low 30's. I was thinking about getting my seed down now since when i took soil temperature readings across my yard yesterday the range was 48-52. My question is tonight we are supposed to get .75 to 1.5 inches of rain and I am not sure if this would be beneficial or harmful to the seed if I were to slice seed it in right before this rain tonight as well as the fertilizer. I got andersons starter fert with Tupersan so I don't want $200 worth of fertilizer washing away! Thanks for all your help guys although this isn't the ideal time to seed hopefully with your help I can get a pretty decent lawn established!
     
  4. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 12,353

    Soil temp is 42 here. bare soil. Partially shaded. At the 2 inch depth. Naturally the seed is on top of the soil. Air temp at the moment is 46.
    My opinion is that nothing happens to blue and rye at temps below 45.

    There are a couple of tiny hints of something coming up. Nothing like germination--except for some maple tree seedlings in my yard.

    I think you would be fine to sock the seed and Tupersan down just before a good rain.

    WE have 106 GDD (Base 32) as of today. What do you have as GDD so far? What base degree levels do you have available in your data from local ag weather sources?

    http://www.gddtracker.net/

    so for Boston here is the calculater--but--it only goes as low as 40--they do not show base 32.
    http://www.yourweekendview.com/outlook/agriculture/growing-degree-days/USMA0046

    Using their data I have 15 GDD base 40. Boston has 57.
     
  5. Snyder's Lawn Inc

    Snyder's Lawn Inc LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,541

    Looking good on the photos

    Steps I do when I thatch and slit seed

    After sweeping up thatch I apply Lime/Fertilizer 1/3 of the seed rate Then I slit seed the other 2/3
    The slit seeder will push some of the Lime/Fertilizer in the ground
     
  6. Grant1994

    Grant1994 LawnSite Member
    from MA
    Posts: 40

    Thanks for the responses guys I wasn't able to get the seed down yesterday because I wasn't able to get the seeder but I plan on doing it first thing tomorrow. I will apply the fert first like you said snyder to help it get worked into the soil. I do have a few more questions though when the grass gets up to a height of 4" or so and it comes time for the first mowing should I use my Gravely or would I be better off using my old Honda push mower for the first mowing or two so I don't tear out any of the new grass with the ZTR? And I plan on mulching the clippings this year up until fall when the leaves start to fall but should I mulch right away or should I bag the first few mowings? Thanks for all of the help you guys are awesome and I am learning a lot from this thread and forum!
     
  7. Snyder's Lawn Inc

    Snyder's Lawn Inc LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,541

    I would let it get to 6'' height and cut only 2'' off
    Then after the first cutting I would broadcast a slow release fertilizer
    If ground is firm I would use the ZTR I only use a push mower in a New Lawn that I prep the ground 4-6'' deep Those lawns on first cutting is soft
    I would keep it 3-4'' tall all time Keeping it tall will hold moisture in the ground
    If you have a lot bare dirt showing you might want put a thin layer of wheat straw down
     
  8. Grant1994

    Grant1994 LawnSite Member
    from MA
    Posts: 40

    Thanks for the help snyder I will be sure to let it get up to 6" and as for the fertilizer I was planning on doing a second app of the starter fert with tupersan in the 3-4 week time frame so I can try and limit the amount of crabgrass and I do have a pretty good hill going from the back yard to front that is mostly bare dirt right now so I will coat that with some straw to help with runoff!
     
  9. Grant1994

    Grant1994 LawnSite Member
    from MA
    Posts: 40

    Well I rented the slice seeder this morning and the calibration was way off I started out with 30 pounds of seed and set the machine to 5 pounds per thousand and began seeding after covering about 8,000 square feet with two passes I had used less than 10 pounds of seed. So I looked at it for a while but could not figure out what was wrong and my rental place is almost an hour away so I just continued to use the machine to put the grooves in the lawn then went over it all with my broadcast spreader at the correct setting and then went back and tried to rake in as much of the seed as I could hopefully it will still have the same outcome it looked like a lot of the seed was getting into the grooves but we will find out!
     
  10. Snyder's Lawn Inc

    Snyder's Lawn Inc LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,541

    I always put 1/3 of it down with a broadcaster before I slit the other 2/3
    I always put down atleast 10lbs per thousand of fescue

    What type of seed you using

    Like on your lawn way the pics look I would slit it one way and then slit it in different direction
    In bare areas when grass does come up you will see lines so when I across it the lines don't show as much and lawn fills in faster
     

Share This Page