Paver Walkways HELP

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by MowingisMaddness, Nov 6, 2003.

  1. MowingisMaddness

    MowingisMaddness LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 260

    Hello Everyone,

    I need some help. A customer of mine desires to have some gravel walkways replaced with Cobblestone pavers. I have experience with retaining walls, but little with pavers for anything other than edging. So, this would be my first real job with constructing walkways with pavers. Here are some of my questions:

    1) One of the walkways is curved. I cannot really figure out how to build this section??? Must I cut ever stone along the edge or edges? The stones I will be working with are small (5.5”x5.5”x2.25). These are the stones the customer desires. The walk will be 36” wide and have an inner diameter of ~32’ and outer diameter of ~42’. It would be an uneven curve... The beginning of the curve is sharper than the rest of it because they want it to follow where the existing walk is.

    So, what I really need is first for someone to explain the process of creating curved paths with square pavers. And then address any other problems they think I am going to face with the walk I described above.

    2) What is the proper way to lay the foundation? I was thinking of digging the trenches, filling them with 2” of sand, compacting the sand, leveling sand, and laying pavers???
    This is the way the customer would prefer...

    However, I could try and sell them on additional foundation steps of 2” of gravel, weedbarrier, then sand IF I understood all the reasons why they are needed. (Guessing)I understand the gravel would provide greater stability over long term and maybe better drainage and the weedbarrier would keep sand and gravel separate also stopping weeds. Are these the main reasons or are there more? Would it be a disaster if the walk were installed without gravel base and weedbarrier? I have seen pavers installed with just sand and they look good, but what about years down the road?


    Thanks for the help,
    AJ
     
  2. dan deutekom

    dan deutekom LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 424

  3. lost mountain

    lost mountain LawnSite Member
    Posts: 92

    You're going to have to cut pavers with a wet saw MM. You can rent one.

    Here's a job we did last January...this walk is straight but there were cuts made with a wetsaw in order to meet the shape of slab pictured at the top in this photo (slab not a straight line, etc.) and at the end of this walk is basically a 45 degree angle (bottom of pic) (the 45 was the client's idea to meet a future asphalt driveway...:rolleyes: ) :

    pavers_arbor1.jpg
     
  4. MowingisMaddness

    MowingisMaddness LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 260

    Do I have to use a wet saw? In the past for retaining wall blocks I used a hand grinder with a diamond blade. These stones are small so I thought that would work fine? Thanks, AJ
     
  5. lost mountain

    lost mountain LawnSite Member
    Posts: 92

    I mainly wanted to make the point that these curves you're talking about require cutting pavers with some sort've saw. Does that grinder w/ diamond blade cut pretty well?
     
  6. NNJLandman

    NNJLandman LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,306

  7. hamsey

    hamsey LawnSite Member
    from CT
    Posts: 123

    Here's pictures of my walkway that I installed in the spring. I did the cuts with a circular saw that has a diamond stone blade. I did not want to rent a wet saw (although it would have been much faster) because of the wet spring we had in CT. I followed the manufacturer's instructions for installation(6" min. 3/4" process with 1" bedding sand).
    Norm
     
  8. AL Inc

    AL Inc LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,218

    Mowing- I think renting the wet saw is the way to go. Lay in all of your full pieces and then do all of your cuts. Before I bought my saw, I used to rent one for about a hundred a day.
    We always lay a 4"-5" base of crushed concrete and compact that with a plate compactor. Really makes a nice solid base. I use 1" square steel tube to screed my sand and get a perfect 1" to lay my brick on.
    I've never used any kind of weed barrier between my gravel (crushed concrete) and my sand, I can't really see any benefit from that. I think most of the weeds grow from debris and soil that fall into the cracks after the brick is installed.
    I think you can get away with just a sand base, but it will probably settle. The extra material and labor are worth it, you might as well do the job once, and do it right. Good luck, Mike
     
  9. lost mountain

    lost mountain LawnSite Member
    Posts: 92

    Very nice Hamsey...what type of circular saw did you use?
     
  10. hamsey

    hamsey LawnSite Member
    from CT
    Posts: 123

    7 1/4" Dewalt with a diamond blade. I had to cut each piece twice (not cost effective) and split in two with a chisel but, with the weather we had this spring in CT I did not want to rent anything in case I could not use it. It took me about 1 month to finish only being able to work on it a couple of hours at a time. (No production that way). Next time I would rent a wet saw. I'm happy with it but it was a PITA! Chalk it up to a learning experience.

    Norm
     

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