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Pavers and wall pics

4K views 27 replies 13 participants last post by  brentsawyer 
#1 ·
Never posted any of my work on here before, thought I would give it a try. Before and after pics.

Plant Property Road surface Window Fence
 
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#6 ·
Nope, basically extended their budget to the end. They talked about maybe later changing the front walkway to match the side walkway. It would be nice to do that and to do a second wall infront of the small one. We'll see. Forgot, will be planting Ivy on the hill next spring, got too late in the season this year.
 
#8 ·
Oaks is the manufacturer. Looks like you use them too. Man, never really looked at the front steps as such a drawback to the overall landscape.

Reason I posted was because I wanted to see what responses are from people who I don't know and don't feel compelled to say that it looks great to my face. Just want honest answers, I can take suggestions without being personal
 
#16 ·
#19 ·
Brent, what did you use for a base? I live in the Dry Ridge area and while in Michigan I saw a large entry to a subdivision made from stone that looks like yours. Are they held together with construction adhesive?
I live in a rural area with about 1 1/2 acres of front yard. I want to construct an entry for my driveway. This looks like something I could do myself.
 
#20 ·
KYFARMER, Base is DGA, dense grade aggregate. The particular units here are basically rectangular concrete blocks and that is it. They are semi-tumbled to give not a so concrete look. They are muanufactured to not go over 36" free standing or 24" retaining. Nice thing about them is that you can have a free standing wall and it looks the same on both sides unlike the typical retaining blocks at the Lowes or HD. On these or any wall, the top layer is glued with constructin adhesive that will not fail and is stronger than concrete so if the blocks do seperate it is because the concrete failed and seperated from itself, not the adhesive. Additional layers can be glued for additional strength but height is another issue, mostly can't be compensated and I would not build over manufartureres specs due to liability. The manufacturer is Oaks and they have a website not sure what it is but is easy to find and they have only two distributors, one in Nicholasville, Meade Concrete Products so you won't see the exact product in a ton of landscapes and it will be remain unique. There are other products that are available that look similar and are built to go higher than this but cost quite a bit more. I do love doing these and believe me, the value is tremendous.
 
#23 ·
brentsawyer - Very nice work and what an improvement to the property. This is the very thing that I would like to get into. I have a couple questions about the foundation for a wall like this. I read your previous response to kyfarmer where you mentioned DGA, is DGA a cement footer or a loose rock base? If cement, is the block just glued to the already dried cement footer? Also, is the wall considered a retaining wall or freestanding? If retaining how is it reinforced to avoid it from falling due to the soil on the one side? You mentioned gluing the blocks together, is this done similarly to cementing bricks together on the vertical and horizontal line of the brick like you see in brick houses? Thanks.:)
 
#24 ·
Yes, The blocks are staggered like brick to add strength. I use these blocks only on applications like this when hydrostatic pressure is kept at a minimum since there is no 'flow' down to the wall. Basically, it is a freestanding wall then and I would not recommend using this particular block for retaining purposes since there is no locking system in place except for the top layer here which is glue and is VERY STRONG. You could however glue each block but is very time comsuming. DGA is short for Dense Grade Aggregate which is available at all local quarrys and may have a dif. name where you are at. Basically it is the smallest gravel that is comprised of dust and small gravel which when compacted is just as hard as concrete and is used in the construction of pavers and SRW, wegmental retaining walls. There are several manufacturers of SRW that are listed in industry magazines and check local suppliers. They really like selling these and are real good about teaching you what it takes to build them and where to get the proper materials. Need anything else, there is a ton of info on lawnsite from other threads or you can PM me.
 
#26 ·
Best way is to rent a plate compactor from a rental store, that will apply over 200psi for best compaction. However, on most walls that are less than 3', a hand tamper works well enough, also making sure that their is plenty of moisture in the material also helps compaction. As far as keeping them from toppling over, weight is the largest factor since each piece weighs over 40lbs, it has some amount of strengh from that. Otherwise, adhesive or your backfill provides strength. One additional item, since it sounds like you have never done one, the materials that you will need to get you started are rubber mallet, two levels or three. I use four. Most important is a 6-12" for leveling each block then at least a 2' level. I also have a 6' and a laser level, the laser level is awesome and real valuable. Also get either a 8" or 12" hand tamper. If you are going to be doing sraight walls, obviously mason line. Also, something to cut through the blocks for corners or end pieces. If you don't have the money for a concrete saw, you could rent one for about $40 or buy a circular saw with several concrete blades, they can go quick but relatively inexpensive. also, for backfill, use #57 gravel so that it allows water to drain away from behind the wall and won't allow dirt to fill directly behind the wall leaving dirt stains to form on the front of the wall.
 
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