Pavers

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by smithf36, Jul 8, 2001.

  1. smithf36

    smithf36 LawnSite Member
    from Indiana
    Posts: 61

    We have been having trouble getting our paver walks, etc. to turn out perfectly level and with the proper grade for water run off. Do any of you know any tricks, etc. to help us out.
    Thanks,
    Joe Smith
     
  2. paul

    paul Lawnsite Addict
    Posts: 1,625

    Use a 6' level. keep a 1/4" pitch per foot of run.
     
  3. Stonehenge

    Stonehenge LawnSite Bronze Member
    from Midwest
    Posts: 1,277

    Joe -

    What method are you using right now to set your base?
     
  4. smithf36

    smithf36 LawnSite Member
    from Indiana
    Posts: 61

    We excavate, compact soil, level sand (this is what we can't seem to get perfect), compact, install edging, place pavers, sand, broom, and compact again. This may be a dumb question, but when using a level, how do you create the proper pitch. We compact a stone base and then sand for driveways, but only sand for walkways. Go ahead and beat me up on this one, I aparently need a leson or two!!!!
    Thanks,
    Joe Smith
     
  5. paul

    paul Lawnsite Addict
    Posts: 1,625

    Joe, always use crushed gravel under your walks. Ok leveling your sand do you use pipes for screeding? If your using the edging then check that you have pitch with your level across your walkways. Not having gravel under your walks might be the cause of your problem sand is shifting or your base material is moving on you.
     
  6. BRL

    BRL LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,211

  7. smithf36

    smithf36 LawnSite Member
    from Indiana
    Posts: 61

    I think that the stone base is probably the biggest part of the problem. The sand (only) seems to settle on us a little, creating the problems. While Screeding, do you just lay the pipe on the stone, or do you try to secure it?
    joe
     
  8. greens1

    greens1 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 352

    All sand is not created equal. You need sand with a mix of large and small grain size that will lock together. If the sand you are useing is all uniform grain size then it will not lock together properly and will remain mobile, even after compacting.

    Apply a stone layer first, I use 4" of 3/4" crushed and fines. compact with a plate compactor, not a hand tamper. Then use a 3" layer of sand, plate compact and screed over pipes to about 2".

    I use slag sand to set pavers in. I find that slag-sand is less mobile, yet still provides for drainage.

    If you need a highly compressed base, for a driveway, then slag-sand or slag is reccomended for the final layer.
     
  9. Stonehenge

    Stonehenge LawnSite Bronze Member
    from Midwest
    Posts: 1,277

    As a former Michigander I used to use slag sand as well. It's a foundry sand that locks up really well. However, I later found it can also have levels of cadmium and lead in it, which is only important if you don't want 2-headed babies.

    Use some sort of angular, crushed stone and use screed rails of some sort to set the stone or sand level. Also, run a search on this site for 'patio base.' It should give you all kinds of good info.
     
  10. Lanelle

    Lanelle LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,361

    Use crushed stone of mixed size - 3/4" to fines. Base should be at least 4" thick after compaction. As previously mentioned, use a plate compactor. Run several passes so that the base feels very tight. It should be difficult to plunge a spike into it. Then use only 1" of washed concrete sand for bedding sand. Screed with iron pipe or rails and don't let anyone walk on that sand. Uneven compaction of that sand will leave indentations later. Remember to run plate compactor over the pavers and sweep in plenty of sand as you do that. Remember to make your base wider than your finished project so the edges don't fail. Extend base on all sides, a distance equal to the base thickness. Use a top-quality edge restraint. Not wood.
    Hope that helps.
     

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