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paving after stump removal

Discussion in 'Tree Climbing, Pruning, Felling' started by tommy g, Feb 2, 2014.

  1. tommy g

    tommy g LawnSite Member
    Posts: 8

    i want to remove a tree and grind stump..im going to have area paved,,how do you keep it from sinking so it can be paved..do you tamp it or wait so many years ?
     
  2. ducnut

    ducnut LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,569

    This is going to sound crazy. I had stumps ground out ~8yrs ago that are still settling. It takes forever for the roots and stuff to decompose. I had a lot of roots and one ground-out stump I paved over. The concrete in that area is a minimum 10" thick and some is as much 13". I've had a semi-tractor on it and it hasn't cracked, yet. I felt like it was cheap insurance to go thicker than necessary than to have it all break apart and need re-poured. My neighbor and I poured 45yds, by ourselves. :weightlifter:
     
  3. lumberjack1986

    lumberjack1986 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 287

    Digging the stump out is easiest, but you can grind through the bottom of the stump and grind the roots out then dig the loose material out and backfill/compact. Leave the top soil out of the backfill, you'll likely need to import fill consistent with the rest of the pad.

    Here's digging 3 stumps out. On this job the area was just becoming landscaped areas, so fill wasn't imported. If we were building over it, we build have backfilled with select fill and compacted it. Also the area around the stump would have been excised back to clean, virgin soil.


    We've ground stumps out before that were under the footprint of a building, but now we just dig them out. It allows for a better finished product at a similar cost to grinding. On larger trees it's easier if we take the tree down. When the tree is short enough to fit in space provided, we hang a chain on top of the spar and start digging. Then we use the chain to pull on the trunk, popping the stump out with less digging. If we have the room we'll pull the whole tree over with minimal digging required.
     
  4. tommy g

    tommy g LawnSite Member
    Posts: 8

    wow...ok thank you very much for the info..
     
  5. lumberjack1986

    lumberjack1986 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 287

    Yep. Let me know if you need any more any info, it's pretty straight forward.
     
  6. vallz

    vallz LawnSite Member
    from Kansas
    Posts: 44

    Just wondering, how long did it take in actual time to dig just one stump out? and total time for the entire project? Ive used a stump grinder before and it take a little while to get a significant portion out but if diggings just as quick, it seems the better way to go.
     
  7. lumberjack1986

    lumberjack1986 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 287

    It depends on the situation, but unless the stump is too big to get out of the hole relative to your excavator, dig them out. Otherwise grind through the bottom of the stump and then use the excavator to remove the root plate.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  8. OneLineAtATime

    OneLineAtATime LawnSite Member
    Posts: 196

    Backfill hole with gravel.. Then pave it
     
  9. lumberjack1986

    lumberjack1986 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 287

    Gravel around here is river rock, not what I would want to build on. Crushed limestone compacts and supports well, costs around $32/yard here. I can get red clay for $7/yard which is what I would use here, unless the customer or engineer specs something else.
     
  10. OneLineAtATime

    OneLineAtATime LawnSite Member
    Posts: 196

    Any kind of gravel is going to hold better than red clay... If you are going to listen to the specs then why did you start this thread?

    Common since when installing a driveway, patio, walkway. Excavate dirt, set your base with gravel, then pave
     

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