pgv jar top issue, not opening fully

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by grassman177, Jun 8, 2012.

  1. grassman177

    grassman177 LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,795

    IT happens to be a hunter 1 inch pgv jartop valve. valve was not working,solenoid tested bad, installed a new solenoid and now it works, problem is it only opens partially and the pressure is too low to pop all of the heads up. then to put a wrench in, you open it manually with solenoid twist and it works perfectly at full pressure.

    now, a little history behind this valve as well. seems, i recall 6 years ago i replaced the entire valve top including the diaphragm and solenoid and jar top. i recall, that it had the same issue, would sometimes open most of the way using the controller, other times only like half but always fine manually opened.

    so, any thoughts on something quick to resolve this issue, before i cut it out and replace the entire valve?

    thanks, kinda perplexed here
     
  2. Mike Leary

    Mike Leary LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,896

    I don't know that valve. It has a flow control? Are you "tuning it". Is it on a well with crappy water?
     
  3. grassman177

    grassman177 LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,795

    no, not that lucky, no flow control and on clean city water.
    just trying to see if there is something like a trick i dont know, etc, or wtf is up with this. i have seen it once before, but on a flow control valve that i opened and closed and then tuned and it cured it.

    pgv jartop i dont think is even made anymore, but i have not checked. i used them for a bit, but they leak if you have to work inside them it seams. not the strongest imo.

    basically though, the same operation and such internally as a hunter pgv, but in a jartop application..
     
  4. grassman177

    grassman177 LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,795

    i figure you old timers in the irrigation field might have some knowledge to share, lol. may of you i am sure have run into this before and have thoughts, and advice. easy to swap this valve out since it is on the end of the main line but thought there might be something i dont know yet, since i have not been repairing but 10 years, and on a small scale
     
  5. Mike Leary

    Mike Leary LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,896

    Depending on the flow, I'd throw a W*M "Silver" or "Black" valve in there. Only dweeb pikers install valves with no flow controls. You could still be getting crap from the potable, since it's at the end of the throw, but a W*M valve will pass most small cars.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2012
  6. Duekster

    Duekster LawnSite Fanatic
    from DFW, TX
    Posts: 7,961

    Have you swapped the valve wire at the controller? I have seen stations not fully power before.
     
  7. Duekster

    Duekster LawnSite Fanatic
    from DFW, TX
    Posts: 7,961

    You define piker. :laugh:
     
  8. Mike Leary

    Mike Leary LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,896

    Thanks, you made my evening. Wire issues could be the problem, I admit, but I'm sure the OP took a OHM reading before dinking around with the valve. The fact the valve bonnet was replaced mite just point to a short-to-ground situation, but I doubt it.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2012
  9. Duekster

    Duekster LawnSite Fanatic
    from DFW, TX
    Posts: 7,961

    Ohm readings on the wire path do not tell you if a ciruit on the controller is going bad old timer. I have seen station pulse because of weak out put on a controller.

    And you assumed the OP checked something. :hammerhead:
     
  10. lawns Etc

    lawns Etc LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,272

    In my area good luck finding a flow control valve in any brand. Never see them from any old installation or even at the supply houses until you get into 1.5" and bigger. So we all must be pikers.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     

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