Pins and bushings Part II

Discussion in 'Heavy Equipment & Pavement' started by Fieldman12, Jan 13, 2008.

  1. Fieldman12

    Fieldman12 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,504

    Okay, I have the bushings and seals back in the top cylinders. I have both caps removed at the bottom where the quick attach pivots and also both bolts and nuts removed. Okay, how does the bushing come out. Looks like it just drives out from the outside of the boom inwards. Was hoping someone may know. Did not want to beat on it much until Im sure.
     
  2. ksss

    ksss LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 7,129

    Fieldman was the machine not greased before you got it? I thought it was a low houred machine. It seems unusual to have to rebush this soon.
     
  3. Fieldman12

    Fieldman12 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,504

    It has about 2100-2200 hours on it. Not sure how long they are lasting on the Case machines but the Deeres and Bobcat's I see allot of the times getting slop in the Quick attach part. Mine seems to have more side to side play in the quick attach than anything. The rest of the boom system is fine. I see they have addressed this issue on the newer 300 series but even on machines with about half the hours mine has I still see some side to side quick attach slop.
     
  4. Fieldman12

    Fieldman12 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,504

    How many hours you been getting ksss?
     
  5. ksss

    ksss LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 7,129

    If the slop is side to side I shim that. I have never replaced bushings in any of my machines, but I don't usually keep them that long (the longest I have kept a machine was to 2500 hours). If your getting side to side slop the new bushing are not likely to help that. The new bushing will cure vertical slop but not side to side to my knowledge unless Deere oversizes the new bushings in length.
     
  6. Fieldman12

    Fieldman12 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,504

    Yeah, the only reason I am replacing the bushings is (since) I have it apart. I am going to use washers to remove the side to side slop. I dont know about you but a machine to me just has to be tight. I like doing fine grading and it makes the job so much easier when you have the least amount of slope as possible. Of course I have a Vertical lift machine so I am going to have some slope even if the machine is brand new. I want to give a special thanks to Jdskidsteer. I sent him an email asking how to get the bushing out of the boom. He said to tilt the attach plate forward and hit the boom and they should come out. The bushing that goes in there is tapered. Those booms are tuff. Cannot even tell I hit them. I also talked to a guy at Nortrax that told me the same thing to do. So now I have the machine all apart and ready to put back together. Just ordered the bushings for the boom today. It is snowing here. I have had the space heater on in the barn blowing toward the skid steer to warm things up a bit before starting work. Just last week when I started this job it was 70 degrees out.
     
  7. Fieldman12

    Fieldman12 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,504

    Just to let you know the cylinder bushings had the same as no wear but the pins where worn there pretty good. As for down at the boom. The bushings that goes through there had some wear but not very much. The bushings in the attach plate I could not tell had any wear. I did not get the mic's out to tell exactly how much.
     
  8. ksss

    ksss LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 7,129

    I am with you. I don't like any slap anywhere. That is why I grease the hell out of them and shim when the slap starts.
     
  9. Fieldman12

    Fieldman12 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,504

    How do you shim yours? I assume you take the plate off? Im sure there is probably an easier way but I figure now it should be good for at least another 2000 hours. I grease mine every time I use it so I know it will have better care with me.
     
  10. ksss

    ksss LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 7,129

    I am not sure how your coupler is put together. I pull each pin and shim it individually with spacers I get from the dealer. Big washers really but they come in different thicknesses. I don't need to pull the entire coupler.
     

Share This Page