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Plans for a log splitter?

Discussion in 'General Industry Discussions' started by walker-talker, Dec 7, 2005.

  1. walker-talker

    walker-talker LawnSite Platinum Member
    from Midwest
    Posts: 4,771

    I am looking to build my own splitter and wondered if anyone knew of where to get some FREE plans. I don't mind buying some plans, but would rather buy a book that shows different options and so forth. I am just looking to get some general information...like how big of engine with what size of pump, hoses, cylinder and so forth. I don't use much wood...maybe a 1/2 cord per winter. Possibly an electric splitter might work. I have a few trees around my property that can hold me over for a few years. Also know enough tree trimmers around to get free wood. It will be more of a hobby building it vs a decision based on economics. It might pay for itself in the very long run, but would just like to build one this winter as for something to do.


    DUSTYCEDAR LawnSite Fanatic
    from PA
    Posts: 5,137

    buy a used 1 its cheeper even a new 1 would be less hassel
    buy the time u get the pump motor and steel i beam u have spent a mint
    i wanted to build 1 but with the cost of all that is needed it was not worth it for me
    thinking about a 3 point hitch splitter for my loader much cheeper for me
  3. P & L Turf

    P & L Turf LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 272

    Just go on to Northern Tool catalogs website to see what they have or just order one from them. I got one from them about three years ago and it runs like a raped ape!!!! It's northerntool.com:D
  4. muddstopper

    muddstopper LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,342

    Why buy a book when you can find everything on line. http://www.surpluscenter.com/techhelp.asp?UID=2005111814244042&catname=hydraulic

    Personally, I agree with others here, I have built splitters when I had surplus parts, but if you have to buy all the materials, its cheaper to buy a new ready to go machine. If you do build your own, dont use less than a 4in bore clyinder. The bore of the clyinder is more important than the pressure. Also dont try to get to large a pump, 2-3 gal a min is plenty fast enough. You get the cylinder cycle to fast and you are subject to lose a finger or worse. Also go with the two stage pumps, they start out low pressure high volume and when pressure is needed they shift into a high pressure low volume mode. A 4 inch clyinder with a 24 inch stroke and 2 inch shaft will need about 5 gal of oil capacity. You can get by with less but the more oil the cooler it wil run. I prefer to use DextronIII instead of hydraulic oil. It doesnt foam or expand in the tank as bad as regular hydraulic oil when it heats up. You will also want a suction filter as well as a return line filter to keep the oil clean. suggest 25 micron minimum. For your control valve make sure you get one with a built-in detent so that it will automaticly return to neutral position at full extended or retracted stroke. Try to limit your high system pressure to about 2500-2700 psi, pumps run cooler and last longer and fewer blown hoses. The more psi the more power (hp) needed to run as well. The sight I posted has all the formulas for calculating gpm/psi/hp to help you pick out the right combination for your application.
  5. walker-talker

    walker-talker LawnSite Platinum Member
    from Midwest
    Posts: 4,771

    Thanks for the help. I have been asking around and most are telling me the same thing....just buy one. I looked a little on eBay and will put some more thought into the idea....thanks again.

  6. muddstopper

    muddstopper LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,342

    For the right payup , I could build you one that could cycle automatically or work with push buttons instead of levers. Cost you more than the regular one's found at Northern though. If interested let me know and I will put together a parts list. :D

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