Plow Modifications?

Discussion in '<a href=http://www.plowsite.com target=_blank ?>Sn' started by 6.9Driver, Mar 8, 2001.

  1. 6.9Driver

    6.9Driver LawnSite Member
    Posts: 24

    Anyone in here customize or modify their plow instead of buying expensive factory parts?

    I bought an older Meyer 7.5' that was in an accident when the previous guy rolled his F-250 with the frame on but plow itself detached. He painted it all black for some reason, had punched holes in the plow with rocks, and wore down the wear bar enough on one end to eat away the corner of the plow. Not a bad deal for $800.

    Here is what I did.

    1) Modified the A-frame with angle iron to stiffen and straighten it. Did a little work to the frame mount and bolted it to my truck.

    2) Went to the surplus store, bought a roll of 3/4" thick by 6" wide by 7'6" wide stiff rubber, mounted it to the top of the plow to curl the snow.

    3) Got a free wear bar from a Colorado DOT county tandem axle dump truck. Wear bar weighs 100 pounds or so alone! It is 3/4" thick and grade 8 steel ;)

    4) Touched up the black paint.

    Now I gotta patch the holes, add a spring and rib here or there to stiffen it up and I am good to go.

    Lemme know what you have done.
     
  2. BRL

    BRL LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,211

    The only problem I see with what you did could be strengthening the A-Frame too much. The components of the plows are designed with weak points so that in the unfortunate event of running into an unseen obstacle, the plow will bend & fail instead of your truck frame. Be careful of over fabricating plows. As for the holes in the mold board, you can buy one of those plastic plow shields from any of the online suppliers and glue it on. I put one on a plow with holes in it and it worked great for around 130 hours of abusive plowing. It threw the snow better than any of the painted steel moldboards I've used so it was worth it to me to keep that plow in service a while longer.
     
  3. 75

    75 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 992

    I refer to mine as Western + Custom since I bought it used, abused and in pieces. The only thing I reused was the moldboard, everything else I built from scratch. My truck mount is also custom fabbed, the lift cylinder mount is incorporated into my bumper. I use a Monarch control box, built a pedestal for it in the cab.

    BRL is right, you have to watch you don't go t-o-o strong with the A-frame since it's a lot more expensive to fix your frame than your plow in the unfortunate event something gets damaged.

    For the snow deflector, same idea - belting across the top of the moldboard, I used a piece of stainless flat bar as a clamp plate complete with stainless hardware.

    I may check into one of those shields too, BRL, since although mine didn't come with holes punched in it there were a number of dents!
     
  4. 6.9Driver

    6.9Driver LawnSite Member
    Posts: 24

    I understand about your advice but the only thing I did to the A-frame was weld a piece of angle to the rear most part where the flat piece of steel used to be. Someone cut a chunk out of it and I had to put back a fabricated piece to ensure my pins would line up everytime. So yes, that is the weak point, everything else is factory. :)

    Nick
     
  5. 75

    75 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 992

    Nick - forgot to mention, I painted mine all black too. The face of the moldboard I used red for, and on the ribs and a couple of other raised areas I highlighted them with red also, using the side of the brush. Simple to do and sets it off nicely - kind of an easy form of "pinstriping"

    Good info at http://www.snowplowingcontractors.com too, if you haven't already seen it.

    [Edited by 75 on 03-10-2001 at 03:52 AM]
     
  6. plowjockey

    plowjockey LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 332

    Rob

    You forgot to mention the Acorn nuts.

    Bruce
     
  7. BRL

    BRL LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,211

    LOL
     
  8. 75

    75 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 992

    Bruce - how could I forget to mention those? I must be slipping!

    Seriously Nick, I did use acorn nuts to "dress things up" a bit. The main reason for using stainless fasteners in the first place, though, is to avoid having to struggle with rusty hardware when you want to unbolt something - my blade guides & deflector come off in spring and get stored inside.
     

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