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Discussion in 'Landscape Lighting' started by INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting, Aug 9, 2011.
This link has the Brass boxes an accessories.
Sounds messy! It's funny because the technique you describe above would have the potential for a higher failure rate than a well done, in-line, waterproof, direct burial connection... but so few 120V guys know about what we in the LV world have available they will continue to demand, complex, leaky, expensive, messy junction boxes be used. I think I will just run a separate wire to each fixture and then make my connections outside of the water feature. Problem solved.
I have connected many - many cords in those boxes with wire nut connections an rubber tape with the epoxy an yet to have had one fail.
What ever works best for you.
If applicable to your installation. When constructing the water feature coridinate with the contractor to install PVC conduit in the walls with brass deck boxes mounted flush with the coping or cap stone around the water feature. There will be two pipes going into this brass box, one going into the bottom of the water feature and the other stubbing out wherever your low voltage transformer is. Use the SJOOW wire supplied with the fixture and make connections in the brass deck box. Fill the box with wax to seal after all connections have been made.
Order your fixtures when found, with the appropriate length for aiming and servicing within the water feature.
Call me if you would like to further this conversation as I have the Canadian Electrical code on my computer for reference.
I just finished going through this on one of my projects except for the special rated fixtures.
Richie, here is something funny. Friday I was in the required refresher course electricians have to do every year in CT. The instructor (who is a awesome inspector and exceptionally code savvy) was saying that if someone wanted to use loopholes, they can, and still remain legal. Pull a permit for a subpanel. Perfectly acceptable to run SER to it. Then after that permit is approved, pull another permit for pool and spa equipment. Code compliant all the way, just have to know the game. Pool equipment run off of a subpanel that is existing is fine. Just thought it was funny that this is raised less than a week after hearing this.
Yes I know all about the loop holes an I use them where ever possible, but this was a new feeder for a Pool sub Panel , totally wrong.
I guess one could set a main Disko near the sub Panel then feed it from that but still not code compliant.
We have to take the refresher course every two years what a PITA.
James... have you looked into Fiber Optics??.. that way there is no electricity. You can locate the light box more than 10 ft. away, build something to conceal it if there isn't a place you can use... and use the focused end emitters for your light points. Just a thought .. then you avoid all the concern.
good luck.. and post pics of this moat!
James... another thought came to mind... can you use a system that is 12 volts only- ie - a 12 volt DC system such as a solar panel, charge controller, deep cell batteries and LED light sources from Illumicare Group ;-)... that way.. there is no voltage higher than 30 volts anywhere in the system of underwater lighting. Would that work?
Thanks George but there is not a fiber system that would give me the amount of light I would need at a reasonable cost. I solved the issue with a dozen fixtures from a Pool light manufacturer.
The solar concept is novel, but not very cost effective or practical in this application.
Which lighting manufacture did you use.