power agitated sick of the hand crank

Discussion in 'Seal Coating Forum' started by PGHSEALER, May 18, 2014.

  1. PGHSEALER

    PGHSEALER LawnSite Member
    Posts: 175

    I currently have a 550 seal master hand agitation tank. It already has the gear and chain reduction on the the tank. I'm sick of turning this darn thing and want to add a Honda motor and a gear to turn everything for me. I have no clue how to make this work proper gear ratio what size motor I would need, if I would have to change the current gear and chain that is on the tank right now??? Any advice possible step by step instructions would be greatly appreciated.
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  2. Gemini sealcoat

    Gemini sealcoat LawnSite Member
    Posts: 18

    I have the same problem right now but I have a 275 gallon hand crank tank. I asked a couple mechanics and with my setup they said I could just go to the hardware store and buy a 12 volt motor and hook up a pulley system some how and it would work just fine. How that works I have no clue and on the hunt to find out. Chime in if you figure something out.
     
  3. raptorx1

    raptorx1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 6

    put a sproket on hand crank and get a chain and gas motor w
    add sprocket supposed to use hydrolic motor but dont have to
     
  4. PGHSEALER

    PGHSEALER LawnSite Member
    Posts: 175

    I already have the gear reduction for the hand crank. What size sprocket and motor do I need to buy?

    Thanks,
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  5. raptorx1

    raptorx1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 6

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  6. raptorx1

    raptorx1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 6

    Posted via Mobile DeviceI built one for a buddy using a 5.5 honda motor and a big sprocket he had laying around not sure of size but the bigger it is the more torque it will have to agitate the sand stuck on bottom after settling
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  7. PGHSEALER

    PGHSEALER LawnSite Member
    Posts: 175

    Thanks
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  8. joeE

    joeE LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 272

    a 5 hp idles @ 600 rpm, so a good power setting is about 1000 rpm. Iam guessing a good tank rpm is about 10-15 . If your eng has a 11 tooth sprocket (drive) and your tank has a 55 tooth (driven), thats a 5-1 reduction. That would put you @ a tank rpm of about 200. a bit to fast. To slow it down more you would need to put that 55 tooth on its own short shaft with another 11 tooth on the end of that shaft with a chain going to another 55 tooth on your tank. Another 5-1. Putting you at a tank rpm of 40, still a bit fast. Do the math, you can go larger on the driven. Any smaller than 11 on the drive will rob HP from the system.
    Cost would probly be the same as if you bought a used gear box & love joy.
    Keeping in mind that some 5 hp"s dont like to start while under any load.
    I would like to hear more about that 12 volt system if it works out. GOOD LUCK.
     
  9. joeE

    joeE LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 272

    Not a very good pic, but you can get an idea what your up aginst. This reduction system runs off P.T.O. of truck. Not sure what rpm is, somewhere around 1,000.

    DSCF0029.jpg
     
  10. joeE

    joeE LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 272

    for using belts you might need a idler (lever or screw in). the one above slips only after setting a few days,so i push on lever, & let it spin 2 times then is good. on 5hp, leave belt lose enough so eng pully wont catch it, start eng first them move idler to ingage. i see a fellow used a go cart clutch, b interesting to see how long it lasts.
     

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