pre emerge for crabgrass on newly seeded fescue??

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by Movinfr8, Mar 28, 2005.

  1. Movinfr8

    Movinfr8 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 178

    First,
    NO I am not licensed as an applicator, and this is NOT for a customer.
    Ok,
    Last spring my brand new diamond fescue blend lawn was fabulous, then hot weather hit. I watered, but crabgrass took over, and when it died, no lawn was left in some places! I need to re-seed the fescue in places, and wait how long before applying WHAT??
    I am a noob with chemicals, so speak slowly in english, please!!
    Thanks in advance, and moderators move to homeowner forum if needed,
    Norm
     
  2. Grandview

    Grandview LawnSite Gold Member
    from WI
    Posts: 3,251

    I like that Bush/Cheney logo. These are the steps I would take. Fertilize the entire lawn now. You can put down crabgrass preventer iwth the fertilizer, but not on the areas that get reseeded. New seedings should get cut 3-4 times before any broadleaf herbicide is applied. I would apply fertilizer every 6-8 weeks as long as the fescue is actively growing. Mow at 3-4 inches.
     
  3. marko

    marko LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 963

    Hey Movinfr8. You have your work cut out for you! Here are some links that might help you out!. The crabgrass wont start to germinate until 1" soil temps are at 55 degrees for 8-10 days. The key to crabgrass is mowing your fescue at 3" once its established. There are 2 options. Pre-emergent now to control any further outbreaks (cant reseed due to herbicide being in the soil) or use something like Tupersan that can control crabgrass in established lawns after it has started to grow (you can purchase at a supplier even though you are not certified as long as it is for your lawn, and it is not a restricted use pesticide. I would probably attempt to control now (with both methods) fertilize what you have, irrigate, and aerate and over seed/reseed in the late summer. Here are the current soil temps in your area:
    DAILY AGRICULTURE OBSERVATIONS...UPDATED
    NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE MEMPHIS TN
    919 AM CST MON MAR 28 2005

    AIR TEMP 24HR SOIL TEMP
    HI LO 7AM PCPN 4 INCH 2 INCH
    HI LOW HI LOW
    WEST TENNESSEE...
    AMES PLANTATION 50 43 45 1.59 60 54 56 49
    JACKSON EXP STA 50 42 45 1.86 53 50 51 45
    MARTIN U OF T 48 41 41 2.15 55 52
    NWS MEMPHIS 50 44 44 1.34 55 52 54 48
    MILAN EXP STA 66 47 47 3.26 52 48
    PARIS 48 42 43 1.82 59 58
    UNION CITY 48 42 43 2.49 48 46

    As you can see you are close now. Dimension claims effective up to the 2nd or 4th tiller (i cant remember) and you can add 5 to 10 degrees for grass next to sidewalks/driveways. Hit it with fert and pre-M now, followup with post emergent later, then do your re-seeding.

    http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/greenline/98v1/gl9803.03.html
    http://gowanco.com/products/Tupersan.htm
     
  4. Enviro Green

    Enviro Green LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 324

    Marko said it.

    Use tupersan. That's why we don't spring seed too hard to control crab and then you have nothing left often.

    Otherwise, seed and use drive 75 to control crab, or then again, call me.

    LOL

    Good luck

    EG
     
  5. bushtrimmer

    bushtrimmer LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 351

    Two options:
    Put Tupersan down now and then dimension or equivelant after cutting new grass a couple times.
    Or, seed now, don't worry about crabgrass, let new seedlings come up real good for a couple weeks then apply a heavy dose of Dimension, Dimension has a little bit of post emergence effect as well as great preemergent as well.
    Then whatever comes up hit with Drive.
    If it were my yard, I would opt for the later option. Probably a lot cheaper and no special chemicals to buy.
     
  6. Enviro Green

    Enviro Green LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 324

    Drive and Dimension aren't special?
     

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