Problem with my Ferris Walkbehind

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by Fresh-popcorn, May 19, 2006.

  1. Fresh-popcorn

    Fresh-popcorn LawnSite Member
    Posts: 49


    First off I want to say great site, Newbie to the site here.

    My problem

    I have a ~1990's Ferris Walk Behind with Kawasaki Motor (manual Pull) Might be 14 hp but dont know since I bought it used over 3 years ago.
    I believe it is 48" Deck with 3 blades.
    Been working great since I bought it used with general oil/filter changes, new tires and grease. I dont own a lawncare business but i own 2.5 acres which I cut every week or every other week during spring-fall.

    Last winter I stored my walkbehind like I always do and this spring I went to take it out of storage and noticed that a door was open near the mower and had the elements on one side (left side) for about 1-2 months. It was still inside a garage but a regular door was left open so that rain or snow could get on it and the last time I checked the garage was 2 months prior to going back and getting it.

    I start it and it fires right up but the RPM's go pretty high and any adjustment to the throttle does nothing except choke and off.
    I was planning on moving it on to my trailer to take home and tested the blades and I noticed that the "high" RPM whale does not activate since the RPM is pretty high as it is.
    When i went to cut some grass to test it out it started to bog down which it normally does not do with respect to the height of the grass that I went over.
    I know that going over very tall grass does a number on RPM/Engine so I know it wasnt the height of the grass that was causing the stress.

    I''m thinking its the Carb or the Switch located at the handlebar but I am not too familiar with lawncare equipment other than changing belts, tires, bands, and simple adjustments.

    Can anyone help out a noob?
  2. oldrustycars

    oldrustycars LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 301

    im guessing the throttle butterfly inside the carb is stuck. when you turn the engine off it the governor will make the throttle go wide open, it thinks it's dying. its probably stuck. find the linkage at the carb, soak everything up with PB Blaster, the best penetrating oil ever. after it soaks good, CAREFULLY try to work the throttle back and forth to loosten it up. its probably stuk partially open, so it runs fast, but the governor cant open it up all the way when in the tall grass. do NOT force anything, that carb is probably over $200 if you break the throttle shaft.
    now, if a gentleman named Restrorob has a different idea, PLEASE do it his way, i will bow to his superior knowledge.
  3. Fresh-popcorn

    Fresh-popcorn LawnSite Member
    Posts: 49


    Thanks for the help, I looked inside the carb after taking the air housing off and it looked like it moved ok but I didnt want to run it without the airfilter since the storage area is very dirty and lots of flying debris while its running.

    I took some penetrating oil in the spray can, Yellow Can (Not WD40) and sprayed it all around any linkage areas I could think of. Heck I think I got spray crazy and did the whole engine and the body since it looked like it was starting to get surface rust from the rain spraying the whole side of the mower.

    I will go back there in Sunday and see what I can do to it after getting some ideas from here.
  4. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023

    Well oldrusty, I believe you hit that nail on the head. The penetrating oil may free the shaft if left on there a while, Myself I grab my trusty can of carb. and choke cleaner. Then spray a little on the outside of the shaft where it goes into the carb. and a shot in the throat of the carb., Then put the throttle cable in idle position and grab the governor arm that the carb. linkage hooks to with my fingers and work it back and forth until the shaft moves freely. Sometimes it takes a couple shots to get the gum out, Then spray a little penetrating oil on the shaft for lubrication.
    The shaft must move freely for the governor to operate properly.
  5. Fresh-popcorn

    Fresh-popcorn LawnSite Member
    Posts: 49

    Thanks, Going to buy me a good can of carb and choke cleaner. I think Gunk brand makes a good one.
    Will trailer it home this weekend and see if that does the job.

    Once again Thanks
  6. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023

    NOOOOO, Leave that Gunk JUNK on the shelf. That stuff is nothing more than mineral spirits in a spray can. Read the labels on the cans and get one without mineral spirits they will do a much much better job. I use Super Tech from Walmart at 97 cents a can.
  7. oldrustycars

    oldrustycars LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 301

    i prefer Hogwash, might be a local brand, but it works well. and PB Blaster seems to do the best job for a penetrating oil. interesting how WD-40 seems to be the brand everyone thinks of, but few mechanics use. good advertising, i guess...
  8. Fresh-popcorn

    Fresh-popcorn LawnSite Member
    Posts: 49

    I never really ever use WD40 since it doesnt work too well.
    Its actually better used as a cleaner since it smells better =)

    I was just taking a guess on the gunk brand but my father who use to be a mechanic (too old now) always used this yellow can he would get from the dealership he worked at.
    After you spray this stuff it foams up a bit and gets into everything.
    Been using it for over 25 years.

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