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Process for Mulchbeds

Discussion in 'Landscape Maintenance' started by cpllawncare, Dec 17, 2011.

  1. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    I agree that 'flowers' should be given fertilizer in sufficient amounts to really show-off... My thoughts lie more with shrubs and some perennials... Around here our major problem can be spider mites, aphids and other sap sucking insects... Where these pests may be common in some landscapes they are not in others...

    Guess in which landscapes, we find these problems... :)

    I agree with you that wise application is necessary for many arenas, but woody plants should grow more slowly...
  2. MarkintheGarden

    MarkintheGarden LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,072

    I agree, the fert does produce a lot of new growth and that is like a free buffet for the sap suckers and we do see that in our area. The funnny thing is often the trees and shrubs are the right size for the landscape or getting there soon enough on their own, but some people will over fertilize them anyway. I guess if you over-fertilize, you can charge for that and then next month you charge for an application to eliminate the insects.

    Most trees and shrubs I apply one application in the fall at half strength and that seems enough to maintain regular growth and keep the plants flowering well in the spring. And of course using the high ph fert for those that benefit from that.
  3. 4 seasons lawn&land

    4 seasons lawn&land LawnSite Gold Member
    from NY
    Posts: 3,597

    In all day direct sun areas the mulch dries out pretty quick and never really breaks down. Thats when it gets stripped off (powerbroom works good!) 90% of the time nothing needs to get stripped off.
  4. MarkintheGarden

    MarkintheGarden LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,072

    This is true. If the mulch is not breaking down it is because the wrong fungus is growing and this does occur because of too little moisture. Sometimes this can be prevented by soaking it well when first applied. Also you can do the watering late in the day so that the moisture remains longer. Sometimes this is hard to prevent.
  5. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    One strategy that may help is to remove some of the coarser material, then work up the semi-decayed stuff underneath so it is able to soak up more water and bind to the soil under that... Next spring you have a clean bed of rotting mulch and are able to put a fresh layer of color on that... best of both worlds... :)

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