Project pics

Discussion in '<a href=http://www.lawnsite.com/buttons/jump.php?i' started by 75, Feb 25, 2002.

  1. 75

    75 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 992

    This is a part I made tonight for my K-35 (1-ton 4x4) project: it's a brace that ties the transfer case to the engine. Because there are a number of transmission/transfer case combinations possible, the braces come in different lengths to suit.

    Naturally, none of the half dozen or so on the shelf salvaged from scrapped trucks were the right one for my 4 speed/205. One option was to try and locate one at a junkyard.........................................no way! :mad: Not when I can build my own.

    About 45 minutes later, it was done. Using one of the factory braces as a guide, I used 5/8" round bar with one end heated and hammered flat (a.k.a. "blacksmith") then bent. It has a 3/8" hole for one of the bellhousing bolts. Other end is 1-1/4 x 1/4 flat bar with two 9/16" holes to bolt to the transfer case. Pieces were tacked together on board the truck to make sure of the fit, then welded and ground at the bench.

    Would have taken 45 minutes just to drive to a junkyard and back.............................and I'd have had to wait 'till the weekend.

    k-35 transfer case strut.jpg
     
  2. 75

    75 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 992

    Here are the ingredients for a body lift. 3" diameter pipe cut to the appropriate length - 2" in my case since I'm building a work truck as opposed to a tall truck - an end cap cut from 1/4" plate and the upper cab cushion.

    End cap is made to fit inside the pipe, welded inside & out then ground smooth on the outside.

    If I were making lift blocks to install on an existing truck, I would have capped both ends and just set the block in place between the cab & the cushion.

    Since I'm building my K-35 frame from the ground up, I had new cab cushions anyway so I chose to weld the pipe to the cushion making it one complete unit. Only thing to watch out for is getting the rubber too hot. I welded about 1/4 of the way around, cooled the part down in the snow, and continued until completed.

    Final step is to drill the 9/16" hole in the end cap, then prime.

    Repeat 6 times and there's the body lift. Within reason, you can make the pipe as long as you wish - 3" or 4" body lift for example. I have also seen square tube used as opposed to pipe, I chose pipe to keep the cab cushions looking "stock".

    k-35 body lift blocks.jpg
     
  3. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 611

    Rob.

    Must be nice to be able to use snow to "cool" parts off.

    None of that here.

    Looks good though.
     

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