PTO Spray Pump System Repair

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by, May 9, 2007.

  1. Hello,
    I just purchased a 93 GMC 4000. It was an old Chem Lawn truck. It is in very good mechanical shape but the pump hoses, valves and fittings need replacement asap. I am located in central NJ and I am looking for a pump system repair and plumb business ANYWHERE near me.
    My achilles heel is plumbing and mechanical repair. Does anyone know of any companies do this type of service and repair? I would be willing to take it a considerable distance to have this done correctly.
  2. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,956


    I have access to all parts and have rebuilt these trucks spray systems a few times. The trouble is I am in Florida. If you can't get the parts maybe I can help you out. I don't believe you want to drive to Florida for me to rebuilt your spray system.
  3. americanlawn

    americanlawn LawnSite Fanatic
    from midwest
    Posts: 5,854

    Apple Earth - I recommend you switch to a Hypro D-30 pump with a 5.5 hp Honda motor.
  4. indyturf

    indyturf LawnSite Bronze Member
    from Indy
    Posts: 1,873

    Thats what I did to the Tru-green truck I had a few years ago. I tried hooking up the pto driven pump and I had problems with hoses blowing! those pumps can really put out the pressure. I mounted a 5.5 Honda with a D-30 to the right of the hose reel in the same compartment as the tanks. it was sure a lot easier than messing with the plumbing on the pto pump.
  5. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,956


    You don't know these trucks or you wouldn't have made that suggestion. First they are an enclosed unit and to mount a Gasoline engine would be very hard. They come with a PTO Driven Hydracel 25 which is 5 time better than a D 30 pump not that a D 30 is a bad pump at all. But the Hydracel 25 is worth more than the truck at this point. Knock TG/CL's work all you want, But their equipment is First Class. They only major problems I have seen with their equipment is the replacement parts where their Idiot mechanic has replaced SS parts with Galvanized plumbed on to Brass. If you don't understand the relation between Galvanized and Brass in relation to Oxidizing solutions, then you might want to work for TG/CL.


    You should check this unit for the galvanized replacement parts, They will rust out and even quicker when in contact with Brass. This is a case or Reverse catatonic reaction. BTW vibration of the Pump will chafe hose lines so be sure they are attached to the frame in a way that they don't chafe a hole in them. You might want to use muffler hangers that have a rubber hanger and double ban the hose where it attaches. The Reinforced hose on the suction side of the pump is expense and hard to splice, but it can be spliced. I run this hose and the pressure side inside and other hose to help eliminate chafing.


    I wrote the above and then saw your post when I previewed my post. I sure hope you didn't throw away the Hydracel pump. You would have throw away more money than the truck is worth. But at least you traded a 25 GPM pump for a D 30 at 9.5 GPM pump. If you had taken your time plumbing the hose under the truck is not that hard. however you must use your head or it will chafe and leak.
  6. indyturf

    indyturf LawnSite Bronze Member
    from Indy
    Posts: 1,873

    I didn't trash the pump, it was still on it when I sold it a couple years ago. I knew that was a top of the line pump, but I had all the problems you talked about. the hoses would vibrate and cause leaks. the muffler hanger idea would probably have helped. I also had problems regulating the pressure, so I figured I would play it safe and avoid a major spill! Maybe if I had known about Lawnsite back then you could have helped me solve all those problems.
  7. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 12,233

    be sure to get a top quality pressure releif valve of the size suitable for the gallons per minute. Make sure you have additional release valve the dumps all the flow back into the tank--and that the hoses are large enough diameter to handle the flow rate gallons per minute easily.
    And don't do what one our our Tru Green rookies did. He forgot to turn off the power take off to the pump--and just drove the truck away. Blooey! Excess rpms and excess pressure. Broken hose. Squirted solution 20 feet high.
  8. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,956


    What I don't understand is why when you have the best pesticide pump made would you replace it with an other. These trucks have run for years all over the country with the Hydracel pumps and under the frame hoses. I can buy 10 D 30 pumps for the cost of one Hydracel 25. The pressure problem can be either a bad regulator or a clodded agitation jet in the tank. The other problem I have is mounting a Gasoline engine inside a Fiberglass shell with very little room in the Hose Reel compartment. Heat build up is just one bad fact and exhaust would have to blow in side as well. One thing I didn't like from day one is one pump with two tanks and two hose reels. The first thing I did was to install a Hypro 12v industrial pump on the smaller 100 tank and hose reel. The 12v Hypro pump is rated at 8.5 GPM and 100 PSI. My Hydracel only runs the front tank. BTW I also installed a 12v spot sprayer in the front compartment with a seperate hose reel.


    TG/CL bulk mixed at the local office-shop in 1500 gallon tanks or bigger and pumped these truck full every morning. You might want to buy a Mix tank for the Ground and use a Chemical resistant swimming pool Circulation pump for both Mixing and loading the Truck. I use a 200 gallon tank off an old skid sprayer with a Swimming pool pump with no problems for my lawn mix and a older 50 gallon skid sprayer for my Ornamental mix. If I am lower than 100 gallons in my lawn tank or 50 gallons in my shrub tank, I can mix and load the truck back full. To try and fill these trucks from inside can be a real PITA.

    BTW TG/CL is now stripping these trucks before turning them back in to the leaser who then sells them in bulk. TG/CL is also drilling the tanks with Multiply holes also so they can't be reused for spraying. Therefore these working trucks are becoming more and more hard to find as are used parts for them. I am lucky that I have a good source for used parts and whole trucks.
  9. Ric
    The PTO and Hydracell work fine. When engaged it brings pressure to both reel guages. I've inspected the underhosing and it looks to be in very good shape. No rubs that I can see. The problem is with the hosing tangle to the right of the reels. There are some galvanized valves and elbows, a PVC piece here or there, rusty fittings and clamps with some small leak spots visable. I do not see any brass.
    I wish I knew about you last week! I had to pick this up in SC and drive to NJ. I would've gladly spent another day or two in get it done right. Is there ANYONE in the Northeast or Mid Atlantic states that does this work? There just has to be. I gotta get this rig pumping asap!
    If I can't manage to scare up a pump plumber this week, I may be forced to undertake the job myself and I just do not trust my skills to do an A+ job on this. If that is the case, can I take some pics, send them to you in hopes of ordering the correct parts??
    Thank you everyone for your input! Keep ideas coming!
  10. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Posts: 2,197

    Have you tried to run any water through it if the pump works? Send some close up photos of problems. Lots of us are very mechanical and may be able to help.
    Try contacting a co-op farming center or tractor center. They deal with lots of pumps on farm equipment...They may be able to help and if so are a good source. You must buy high pressure hoses for the pump--not that cheap web stuff from Home Depot. Most of my hoses on the stuff was about $9/ft. Anyway sent some photos.

Share This Page