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pulling pipe and wire

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by MOlawnman, Mar 21, 2003.

  1. MOlawnman

    MOlawnman LawnSite Member
    Posts: 161

    would like some advice....

    I just purchased a plow for installs (used to trench everything in). How do you get the control wire in with the main? This may sound like a stupid question, but I am new to pulling pipe and thought maybe someone here could give me a heads up on the subject.


  2. HBFOXJr

    HBFOXJr LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,712

    Just lay the wire along the pipe and wrap with a few layers of duct tape and stuff into the grip. This pic does not have the wire but it is what we use.

    NOTE: the "bullet" is larger than the pipe meaning little to no abrasion as it is pulled in. If you don't have this type, get it. The tip of the grip, pipe and wire are up inside the "bullet" and are protected.

    pull blade web pic.jpg
  3. greenworldh20

    greenworldh20 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 659


    installing wire this way may damage the wire. i am not going into specifics, but there is a great change of shortening the life of the wire by 'stretching' it.

    try pulling a seperate conduit (3/4' pipe) for irrigation wire. this will allow better protection for wire, faster installation, less chance wire will be broken...

    many advantages to conduits for wire.

    hell, if you are concerned about the price, then charge for it.

    wire in conduit, upsell, upsell, upsell....

    that is the key to making $$$
  4. HBFOXJr

    HBFOXJr LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,712

    Brian, how many miles of wire have I installed by pulling since 1971?

    Your comments have been made by others before but there is no substantiation. Our tunnel is always enough bigger than the pipe and wire so that the wire is never jammed against the tunnel wall.

    I've NEVER had a piece of bad wire.
  5. MOlawnman

    MOlawnman LawnSite Member
    Posts: 161

    My pull blade has a 3" bullet on it. My pipe grip is the "chinese fingers" type. Will this work if I tape the wire to the pipe? Also, where did you get that puller. My supplier only has the fingers type. Thanks for your advice!!!
  6. HBFOXJr

    HBFOXJr LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,712

    That set up is made by "Triple D" I think. John Deere can get them, probably other irrigation houses too. I don't know if they are building for any manufacturers like Case, Vermeer etc.

    No need to tape pipe shut and they are made in several sizes. Finger lasts longer since it is in the tube. They also make blades. and all the connector stuff. Blade tips are replaceable.

    We used to use a machined piece about 3.25" OD with the finger behind. Because they were not in the tube they wore out quicker.
  7. greenworldh20

    greenworldh20 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 659

    i have not pulled wire with the machine...just what i heard from various contractors. but i agree with it...when i pull pipe and then cut at end of run, you get 'rebound'. when you pull pipe, you exert force on the pipe, stretching it as it moves under the turf. when you end a pull, and cut the pipe, the pipe 'rebounds' or reverts back to its original shape, with out the force.

    same goes for wire.

    maybe we agree to disagree.

    i feel a conduit is better for 2 reasons.

    1-you have protection for the wire.
    2-if you have to add wire, it is sooooooooooooo easy.

    but hey, if you have been doing it for 30 years, then you found what works for you.

    we try to upsell the conduits.
  8. HBFOXJr

    HBFOXJr LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,712

    If you are getting rebound your bullet is too small. Not only can wire get damaged as you describe but so can the pipe. The pipe, and wire if it is there, should be easily moved by hand in the tunnel. Sometimes with pvc we even "push" pipe. We make the tunnel with the bullet or ball. Then put 2 layers of duct tape over the end of the pipe and slide it through by hand. That is very nice where T's & el's occur as all the pipe is then at the same depth, no digging back. Where one pipe intersects or crosses another throw down 2 short planks so you don't collapse the tunnel when crossing.

    Now using poly for lats we can't do that, but still do sometimes for main. Can't do it well with lots of roots or other debris. Small stones are not a problem if soil consistency allows them to stick into the tunnel wall.
  9. greenworldh20

    greenworldh20 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 659

    i'll have to check our bullet...thanks for the info.

  10. DanaMac

    DanaMac LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,156

    I've also pulled wire with the pipe and have never had a problem. But I imagine it could exist. I think Harold's bullet may prevent a lot of the problems with that.

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